Georges Kern, the CEO of Breitling, is no longer just getting started. He is now fully immersed in his role, with unstoppable momentum driving each of his brand’s numerous personal projects. Many of these projects, such as the recent successful Summit launch concept, have moved beyond their early stages.
One noteworthy project involves the establishment of a friendship and brand collaboration with renowned surf star Kelly Slater. This collaboration has resulted in the creation of the second Breitling x Outerknown Superocean watch, which was designed with Slater’s input. For those keeping track, Slater has an unprecedented 11 world surf titles under his belt. In addition, he has started an apparel company called Outerknown, which aims to revolutionize the sustainable fashion industry, and has even partnered with a USC scientist specializing in geophysical fluid dynamics to construct a wave pool.
And it’s here, at the edge of this pool where I now stand, slack-jawed as Slater is towed out to its north end. There is a distant rumble from its far edge as a perfectly formed six-footer rises from the water’s glassy surface, conjured from the dusty earth using magic that Tolkien himself might struggle to articulate. The speed and smoothness at which it appears are startling, like special effects crossing the uncanny valley, leaving the viewer unable to discern fiction from reality. And just like that, Slater is already upright — he blasts onto the curled lip and snaps back, shooting an arc of spray into the sky. He does it again. And again. And again, for a full 45 seconds, his ride ends as he explodes from the wave’s immaculately shaped barrel, 20 yards from shore. It is, unquestionably, the singular ride that any surfer might spend a lifetime pursuing. But just as it ends, it repeats, running in the opposite direction of the pool once every few minutes, for the remainder of the day. It’s easy to see why it’s been dubbed “the smile machine” because everyone who emerges from the pool does so with a wide grin.
To clarify, this is not your typical wave pool. It started as a top-secret project disguised as a tilapia hatchery in the water-deprived farmland of Central California. Its ultimate goal was to create a flawlessly perfect barrel wave that could be ridden repeatedly. Before December 2015, it was seen as the surfing world’s equivalent of a moon landing, the last unexplored frontier in the sport. Remote breaks in every corner of the world had been explored, conquered, and documented on Surfline. But Kelly Slater wasn’t chasing another world title. He wanted to achieve something extraordinary. So, over a decade, he and his friends built a wave using cutting-edge science and engineering. The result was the longest, rideable open-barrel wave ever created by humans. When a video of him joyfully riding this wave surfaced four years ago, surfers from around the world collectively lost their minds. You can watch the video here.
For what it’s worth, I’m not a surfer. However, one doesn’t need to be a professional waterman to watch Slater’s wave and be mesmerized by its shape, speed, and stunning consistency. These elements defy the universally accepted reality that the ocean is anything but consistent. It is the unpredictability of the ocean that makes surfing such a uniquely challenging and fulfilling sport. Every ride is different because every wave is different, except for this one.
Driven by “the Vehicle,” a submerged plow-shaped wedge that runs along a track at the side of the pool, this wave is both powerful and perfectly shaped, seemingly unending. However, it is also predictable. This eerie predictability sets it apart from the chaos of a real-world break and makes it the dream-haunting endgame for many surfers worldwide.
The wave also symbolizes the extent of Slater’s ambition, which appears to be limitless. His creation of the laid-back clothing brand Outerknown reflects a similar level of ambition, aiming to establish a clothing line that celebrates surf culture while challenging the world of disposable “fast fashion.” Slater aims to prove that sustainability can be both high-quality and profitable. These principles align with Georges Kern’s vision for the future of Breitling, as he strives to make the brand carbon-neutral within the next three years. This goal will be achieved through various measures already in place, such as reducing unnecessary watch packaging (which Kern openly admits to despising) and incorporating more sustainable elements like the recycled nylon straps featured on Outerknown watches. This initiative contributes to the growing trend of “sustainable luxury” in the watch industry, with Outerknown investor Kering Group (a French luxury brand group that includes Gucci, Saint Laurent, Ulysse Nardin, Girard Perregaux, and others) having already made a public commitment to this cause.
Georges Kern understands that Breitling cannot singlehandedly change the world. However, he recognizes that Breitling, along with Outerknown, serves as a powerful platform that, when combined, can reach and educate entirely new audiences about pressing matters, such as the current plight of our oceans. This is where Kern and Slater’s ambitions align, leading to the creation of the second watch in the Breitling x Outerknown collaboration. This watch reinforces the message established by the first Superocean Heritage Chronograph released last year, shortly after Kern assumed his role. At the core of each Outerknown watch is a strap woven by Breitling using Econyl, which is made from recycled nylon threads derived from salvaged ghost nets. It is estimated that there are well over half a million tons of these discarded nets at the bottom of the ocean.
The straps are colorful, supple, and incredibly comfortable, comparable to NATO straps from both third-party and OEM manufacturers. During this year’s Summit, Breitling revealed its expansion into the strap market, offering a wide range of new colors and styles, each specifically designed to match existing dials in the Superocean and new Avenger collections. However, straps are just the beginning. Kern views each watch release as a stepping stone towards a higher level of sustainability for the brand and its suppliers on a global scale.
Kelly Slater is not only the world’s greatest surfer, but also a simple man. He explains that the idea for Outerknown came to him one day when he suddenly became obsessed with what he was putting on his body, after years of obsessing over what he was putting in his body. Fast forward four years with CEO Mark Walker leading the way, and Outerknown is already a leading brand in sustainable manufacturing. They have successfully collaborated with major global brands like Levi’s and Vejas, while also providing consultation and guidance to other brands in the Kering group to help them achieve similar sustainability goals.
For this particular Superocean watch, Slater’s design instructions were simple and unsurprising: make it smaller, lighter, and greener (using his favorite color, “kelly green,” which is known among his circle). The goal was to create a watch that would be less noticeable while paddling out, and it features a nylon strap for added security in the water.
Breitling fulfilled this directive by creating a three-hand Superocean watch in a unique shade called “Kelly’s Green.” Unlike the typical green associated with the Boston Celtics or St. Patrick’s Day, Slater’s green is a matte, olive-drab color with a matching ceramic bezel. This earthy and uncomplicated design still maintains the high level of refinement that we expect from Breitling cases and dials. It is a look that should appeal to both style-conscious and eco-conscious watch enthusiasts.
The new Outerknown x Breitling edition aligns with other Arabic-dialed Superocean watches that were updated around the same time last year. It features a modern 44mm stainless steel case that is water resistant up to 1000 meters and includes an automatic helium-release valve at 9 o’clock. Unlike previous Breitling divers from the Schneider era, this watch has a relatively compact size, with a modest lug-to-lug length and a relatively slim profile (although the additional thickness of the NATO strap should be taken into consideration).
My favorite aspect of the Breitling x Outerknown watches is not just the fact that they were specially designed by one of the greatest surfers of our time, or that they come with environmentally-focused straps. What I truly appreciate is the vision they embody: a small contribution to a larger effort to redefine what it means to be a luxury brand in the 21st century while prioritizing respect for the planet. Sustainability is no longer just a passing trend; it should be a mandatory principle across all industries. Brands that do not openly share their sustainability plans should be seen as part of the problem, not the solution.
Last year’s Outerknown watch was produced in a limited quantity of approximately 1500 pieces. While not officially confirmed, it is reasonable to assume a similar production volume for this year’s version, which is priced at $4,200. For more information about the collaboration between Breitling and Outerknown, visit breitling.com.
The Rolex Daytona is more than just a watch; it is an icon, a symbol of prestige, and a timepiece beloved by collectors and enthusiasts worldwide. With its rich history and timeless design, the Rolex Daytona has become one of the most sought-after luxury watches. In this blog, we will delve into the fascinating journey of the Rolex Daytona, from its origins to its status as a legendary timekeeping companion.
Birth of an Icon:
The Rolex Daytona was first introduced in 1963, taking its name from the renowned Daytona International Speedway in Florida, USA. Initially targeting racing and motorsport enthusiasts, Rolex partnered with the racing world to create a watch that could meet the demanding needs of professional drivers. The first reference, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 6239, featured a tachymeter bezel and three subdials, allowing wearers to measure elapsed time with precision.
Paul Newman and the Rise to Popularity:
In the 1970s, the Rolex Daytona gained significant popularity due to actor and race car driver Paul Newman. He was often seen wearing a Rolex Daytona Reference 6239, which quickly became known as the “Paul Newman Daytona.” This association propelled the Daytona into the public eye and increased its desirability among collectors. The Paul Newman Daytona has since become one of the most sought-after and valuable vintage watches.
Evolution and Advancements:
Over the years, Rolex has continuously refined and improved the Daytona, incorporating cutting-edge technology and materials. In the late 1980s, they introduced a self-winding movement, the Caliber 4030, based on Zenith’s El Primero movement. Then, in 2000, Rolex unveiled its in-house manufactured movement, the Caliber 4130, bringing enhanced accuracy and reliability to the Daytona.
Enduring Design:
The Rolex Daytona’s distinctive design elements have remained largely unchanged throughout its history. The watch features a 40mm case, a sporty and functional tachymeter bezel, and three subdials for measuring hours, minutes, and seconds. Its elegant and iconic aesthetics make it instantly recognizable, with variations available in various precious metals, stainless steel, and even rare materials like ceramic and carbon fiber.
Endorsements and Celebrity Connections:
The Rolex Daytona has received numerous endorsements from legendary figures in the world of sports, entertainment, and racing. From Sir Jackie Stewart to legendary actor and racing enthusiast Steve McQueen, the Daytona has graced the wrists of some of the world’s most influential personalities. These associations further cemented the watch’s reputation as a symbol of success and achievement.
The Rolex Daytona is a timeless legend that continues to captivate watch enthusiasts and collectors worldwide. With its origins deeply rooted in the world of motorsport, it exudes a sense of elegance, precision, and unwavering performance. From its early models to the contemporary variations, the Daytona showcases Rolex’s commitment to excellence, innovation, and enduring design. Whether showcased on the wrists of racing champions, Hollywood stars, or dedicated watch enthusiasts, the Daytona remains a testament to the evolution of horology and the pursuit of perfection.
Every watch collection should have a go-to dress watch because of how easily it can be worn for formal occasions as well as work. Although dress watches have historically been made of precious metals, the usage of sturdy steel has developed as a stunning alternative, offering a unique charm and versatility. In this post, we’ll look at some of our favourite steel dress watches, each of which perfectly balances elegance and practicality.
Steel dress watches have a special fascination because they combine steel’s hardness and durability with the sophistication and style needed for formal occasions. These watches appeal to anyone looking for a multipurpose and durable accessory since they present a contemporary take on dress watch aesthetics. Steel dress watches, which simply slide under sleeves and exude an air of subtle refinement, frequently feature smaller profiles and wrist-hugging designs than their counterparts made of precious metals.
Check out our top picks for the best steel dress watches:
Cartier Roadster Large W62025V3
The Cartier Roadster Large W62025V3 is proof of how well Cartier can combine sportiness and classic elegance. This steel dress watch was introduced as a part of the renowned Roadster collection, and it emits a unique and alluring charm.
The stainless steel casing of the Roadster Large W62025V3 has a sleek, aerodynamic shape that is reminiscent of vintage sports automobiles. Its oval shape is stressed by a large crown guard, which gives the design a sense of assertiveness. Roman numeral hour markers, a characteristic feature of Cartier, are added to the watch’s silver and white dial to further emphasise its refinement. The date window and large hands at 3 o’clock provide functionality without detracting from the watch’s elegant appearance.
This extraordinary clock combines dress watch features with sporty aspects, making it the perfect accessory for both formal and casual settings. The Cartier Roadster Large W62025V3 embraces a small profile and embracing wrist presence in spite of its sporting roots, enabling it to easily go under cuffs and convey a sense of luxury. It easily blends functionality and flair, making it a dependable companion for any occasion, from the boardroom to a night out.
Rolex Sky-Dweller 326934
In 2012, the Rolex Sky-Dweller series made its debut, providing a revolutionary fusion of refinement and use. Following in 2017, the Rolex Sky-Dweller Steel White Gold Black Dial 326934 wowed watch connoisseurs with its opulent style and amazing complexity.
The Sky-Dweller is a prime example of Rolex’s dedication to horological innovation. Rolex has always been associated with great craftsmanship and precision. The watch’s steel frame and dramatic fluted white gold bezel combine to create a mesmerising monochrome appearance that screams luxury. Excellent legibility is ensured by the white gold hour markings and hands against the black dial.
The Sky-Dweller’s wide range of complexities is one of its most notable features. This watch features an annual calendar that automatically adjusts for months with 30 or 31 days and only needs to be adjusted once a year. The date display was tastefully placed in the third hour. With the help of the central hands and the revolving Ring Command bezel, the watch’s dual time zone feature enables users to track two different time zones at once.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712
Since its release, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712 has been renowned among watch enthusiasts. The ideal balance between sportiness and elegance is embodied in this steel model with a mesmerising blue dial.
The Nautilus 5712 has a powerful and recognisable presence on the wrist thanks to its stainless steel case and interestingly curved bezels. Its eye-catching blue dial is enhanced with luminous hour markers and hands, which add to its visual appeal. The moonphase indication, which gives the dial a hint of romanticism and sophistication, is one of this watch’s most distinctive complexities. It keeps meticulous tabs on the lunar cycle.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time 7700V
The brand’s commitment to travel and adventure is reflected in the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection. A beautiful steel dress watch that combines utility and tasteful aesthetics is the World Time 7700V model.
The Overseas World Time watch was painstakingly crafted with care to every last detail. It has a substantial 43.5 mm stainless steel case that emanates strength and durability. The dial features a fascinating globe map design that shows 37 time zones and the local time in each area. Travellers from around the world will find this excellent feature especially helpful because it makes it simple for them to keep track of different time zones.
The watch also includes a date display and a day/night indication, which improves its use and usefulness. With replaceable straps for various occasions, including a stainless steel bracelet and rubber or leather straps, the Overseas series is renowned for its adaptability.
Monster, Turtle, Tuna, Sumo, Samurai, Arnie…all of these are popular nicknames for Seiko watches and demonstrate the Japanese Giant Watchmaker’s cultural presence. But what about Shogun? That’s one we haven’t heard of in a while.
Since its debut in 2008, the Seiko Shogun has been relegated to obscurity and, at times, the home market under the shadow of other successful dive watches from the brand’s large catalogue.
We all know that the aliases for Seiko watches that are popping up on the internet all have deeper connotations, and Shogun is no exception. Shogun, which means “military ruler” in Japanese, was given upon the strong diver by Seiko’s fandom to reflect the watch’s imposing appearance and commanding character.
From the Seiko Shogun’s history and origins to the famous generations that followed its release, this is the comprehensive guide to one of the most ultra-rugged and approachable divers of all time.
ABOUT SEIKO DIVE WATCHES
Seiko is a famous brand known for manufacturing some of the greatest entry-level divers on the market, which has enchanted collectors for decades. The origins of Seiko’s diver’s watch line may be traced back to the 1960s and the Tokyo Olympics.
There was a need to create a high-performing timepiece to enable Japanese watchmakers compete with Swiss brands, which led to the release of Seiko’s first dive watch, the 6217 (62MAS), in 1965. It was also the first Japanese dive watch with a water resistance rating of 150 metres.
Prior to its launch, Seiko had produced a number of pre-divers with 50 and 30-meter water resistance, such as a handful in the Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave collection. The 62MAS, on the other hand, is widely regarded as the brand’s trademark step into the domain of genuine divers.
The original edition had a tiny crown with the reference 6217-8000 and a 90-day production run. The following year, an enhanced variant (Ref. 6217-8001) with a larger crown was launched.
The watch included all of the basic dive watch components, such as luminous hands and markings, a bi-directional rotating bezel, domed plexiglass, a date window, and an 18,000bph automatic movement.
It immediately became popular and was a strong contender in the dive watch industry until 1967, when the 6215-8000 entered the fray. It was the first 300-meter professional model with a Hardlex crystal and a screw-down crown from the brand.
The 6105 model, a highly sought-after iteration, arrived a year later. Martin Sheen notably wore the 6105-8110, or Captain Willard, in “Apocalypse Now.” It pioneered the cushion case shape, which appears square with rounded edges and is still available in the SRP range today.
As the years passed, research and development proceeded, and numerous classic dives with cult followings were released. Many watch aficionados maintain a special place in their hearts for Seiko divers, which continue to deliver exceptional performance and durability at reasonable prices.
HISTORY & ORIGIN OF THE SEIKO “SHOGUN”
The Seiko “Shogun”, formally the Ref. SBDC007, achieved legendary status in the Horological sector almost immediately following its launch in 2008. The renowned diving watch’s heritage is centred on community involvement and Seiko’s superior craftsmanship.
The divers’ nickname was bestowed upon them by an admiring international public. The description of the watch as “full battle armour” with “crisp lines” conjured up images of a warrior under attack.
The trend persisted, and Shogun was accepted by Seiko’s following due to the imposing presence of the timepiece due to the armor-like components of the case. The term immediately spread and became profoundly imprinted in the watch’s personality, embodying the comfort, character, value, and charm of the diving watch.
The Shogun is housed in a 44mm titanium case that, while lighter than steel, is exceptionally resistant to impact without distortion.
The watch is driven by the Seiko Prospex calibre 6R15 movement, which assures precise timekeeping and has a 50-hour power reserve with hacking and manual winding features.
The Seiko Shogun Story demonstrates the dedication and passion of a caring community. Its attractive design, along with perfection, assured it a place in watchmaking history.
The more we learn about the Seiko Shogun, the more we come across remarkable examples of unusual features and enduring appeal. With all of this in mind, there’s no denying that the Seiko Shogun is a classic watch with a proven track record of performance.
SEIKO “SHOGUN” FIRST GENERATION
In 2008, the first iteration of the Seiko Shogun was released. The SBDC007 and its orange variation, the SBDC009, were the first diving watches to come in Seiko’s catalogue. Let’s examine more closely at the SBDC007.
THE CASE & BRACELET
The SBDC007’s casing was enormous in size. It was 44mm in diameter (without the crown) and 13.3mm thick, with a 50.75mm lug-to-lug spacing. Titanium was used for both the case and the band, making the watch lightweight while also giving excellent corrosion resistance and durability.
The basic components that define the Shogun’s distinguishing feature were initially shown in the SBDC007, which exhibited a muscular angularity with razor-sharp transitions.
The watch’s striking dynamism can be seen in the crown protection, sturdy shoulders, angled inner lugs, deeply notched bezel, and flowing bevel around the case, which results in four faultless angles where the sharply angled lug lowers.
The top of the case is brushed, while the sides are polished, and the screw-down crown is inscribed with a simple S. The screw-in case back is also polished and contains a few specifications as well as the Seiko Divers Tsunami logo etched in it.
The bracelet is made of titanium and has a three-fold clasp with a secure lock, a diver’s extension, and a push-button release.
THE DIAL
The dial of the SBDC007 is black and features applied dot markers. The matte-finished black surface makes the attached hour markings stand out the more elegantly. You’ll see the typical inverted triangle or arrow with a line in the middle at 12 o’clock.
At 6 o’clock, an italicised “Automatic” inscription appears, followed by “SCUBA” and then “200m” beneath it, keeping the symmetry in check. Again, the 6 and 9 o’clock markers are sword-tip shapes that correspond to the minute hand, while the hour hand is a reflection of the 12 o’clock marker.
At 3 o’clock, there’s a handy date display, and both hands and indexes are filled with Seiko’s patented Lumi Brite for great legibility in low-light circumstances. The unidirectional bezel is made of titanium and is a little aggressive, with strong sand-blasted knurling that provides excellent grip.
MOVEMENT
The SBDC007 is powered by Seiko’s in-house 6R15 movement. The movement, which is just a step below most of Seiko’s conventional “high-beat” movements, was released in 2005. It is an improvement over its predecessor, the 7S26, because it includes a hand winding and hacking mechanism.
It has 23 diamonds and beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, maintaining the second hand smoothly moving over the dial. It has a battery life of about 50 hours and is relatively accurate at +25/-15 seconds every day. The 6R15 calibre is a premium workforce that was popularised by Seiko’s SARB series, as well as Seiko’s “Sumo”, “Alpinist”, and “62MAS Re-edition” watches.
WATER RESISTANCE
The SBDC007 is waterproof to 200 metres (660 feet), making it an ideal dive tool. This implies it can be used for scuba diving as well as keeping correct time while participating in other recreational water sports.
OTHER MODELS OF THE FIRST GENERATION
Other first-generation models include the SBDC009 and SBDC029, as well as two limited editions, the SPB057 and SPB099.
While the SBDC007 was known as the “Black Shogun” because of its sleek and timeless design, the SBDC009 was known as the “Orange Shogun” because of its brilliant colour.
Furthermore, because Seiko was committed to continuous innovation, loyalists anxiously awaited succeeding models. So, in 2015, Seiko sparked the interest of its devoted fan base by releasing the Black Shogun Prospex (ref: SBDC029) to a fervent set of brand aficionados.
The SBDC029 was essentially a relaunch of the SBDC007 with minor dial adjustments. The dial inscriptions of the SBDC029 differed from those on the SBDC007 dial. It included the Prospex “X” emblem as well as the word “Automatic,” but this time it was fully capitalised.
Under that, the words “DIVER’S 200m” are carefully spelt out. Remember how the SBDC007 had an italicised “Automatic” inscription with the words “SCUBA” (not Diver’s) and “200m” beneath it?
To meet the needs of watch collectors, Seiko produced Shogun limited editions designed specifically for Thailand. The Zimbe Shogun (ref: SPB057) and Zimbe Red Shogun (ref: SPB099) were two of these editions, introduced in 2017 and 2019, respectively.
Zimbe is derived from the Japanese term “Jinbe Zame,” which means “whale shark.” The movement, case material, and dial arrangement are all the same, however there are a few differences.
The dials are graduated, and the words “Automatic” have been replaced with “Limited Edition” at 6 o’clock. The sapphire crystals on the SPB057J and SPB099 are also anti-reflective, and there is a cyclops over the date window at 3 o’clock.
SEIKO’S “SHOGUN” SECONDS GENERATION
The Seiko Shogun’s second generation was released in 2020 under the model codes SPB191J1 and SPB189J1. The goal of this launch was to replace its predecessor with improved dependability and usefulness, hence the main update is technological rather than cosmetic.
However, the Seiko Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 watches retain the SBDC007’s basic personality while combining some of the brand’s most recent materials and technologies.
They are 43.5mm in diameter (yet large enough to sit comfortably), 51mm in length from lug to lug, and 13.3mm in thickness. The titanium design features the same angular lugs and powerful shoulders as the steel case, as well as sharp crown guards for the screw-down crown.
For added durability, the case is coated with Seiko’s super-hard coating. The watches retain all of the Shogun’s characteristics, such as exceptional legibility and a 200-meter water resistance rating.
Both have a titanium inlay and a sharp-toothed unidirectional bezel like their predecessors. The Shogun SPB191J1 has a two-toned bezel in black and anthracite, whereas the SPB189J1 has a striking black and bronze arrangement.
The Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 models, unlike the first Shogun generation, have an improved sapphire crystal with superior scratch resistance than the Hardlex crystal seen in the first generation.
The dials of the second generation are similarly smoother and more rounded, similar to those on the Seiko Monster, with exquisite triangle-shaped markings (no dots this time) and more rounded hands.
We already stated that the fundamental distinction is more technical, as seen by the movement mechanism. The upgraded 6R35 calibre with 24 jewels and a remarkable 70-hour power reserve is featured in the second edition. The original generation, on the other hand, employs a 6R15 calibre with 23 jewels and a power reserve of 50 hours.
While both movements support hacking and manual winding, the biggest difference is in the power reserve, with the 6R35 providing 20 hours more than the 6R15.
Finally, the Shogun watches of the second generation stand out in more ways than one. The dial changes improve legibility, and the increased power reserve makes it a better choice for watch enthusiasts.
SEIKO “SHOGUN” VS OTHER SEIKO DIVE WATCHES
Since Kintar Hattori introduced the brand’s first pocket watch, the Seikosha Timekeeper, in 1895, Seiko has been at the forefront of new technology and designs.
The Seiko Shogun and other Seiko dive watches adhere to the brand’s high standards for diver production, earning praise from professional divers worldwide. However, the company offers a variety of diver’s watches at various pricing points.
The Seiko Prospex collection currently includes over 120 diver models, ranging from mechanical watches to solar-powered Prospex PADI Chronographs. Let’s compare the Seiko “Shogun” to other Seiko Dive Watches.
1. QUALITY
Despite the fact that Seiko has traditionally focused on producing low-cost diving watches, its watchmaking expertise and proprietary technology have earned it a reputation for excellent quality and expert craftsmanship.
When it comes to the timepieces in its catalogue, there may be greater style and utility at practically every hundred-dollar increment. But you can be certain that each one is manufactured of high-quality raw materials, including the Shogun.
Before they are issued to the general public, all Seiko divers must pass a series of rigorous scientific tests to prove their quality, dependability, and durability. As a result, the Shogun, like other diving watches, is built to last. The more recent release’s protective glass is composed of high-grade sapphire, whilst prior incarnations use Hardlex crystal.
Titanium, which is approximately 40% lighter than stainless steel but just as resistant to impacts with comparable technical and physical attributes, also gives the Shogun an advantage over other diving watches from the brand.
Due to the usage of titanium, divers who are sensitive to nickel will prefer the Shogun. Overall, the quality is comparable to luxury dive watches at the cutting edge of technology.
2. LEGIBILITY
Seiko dive watches are noted for their simple, intelligent, and readable design. Lume is always liberally applied to the hands and indices, with a high level of finishing on the hands and markers that not only play with light for aesthetic objectives, but also improve legibility.
The Shogun, like many other dive watches, features Seiko’s LumiBrite technology on the dial, which lights brightly in the dark and keeps the wristwatch very legible to depths of 200 metres. LumiBrite is a vastly improved luminous paint that is completely free of radioactive ingredients and absorbs light energy quickly upon exposure, which it stores and emits in the dark.
The Shogun’s strong markers and handset demonstrate how visibility is improved in every aspect. When you combine that with a clean dial, you have a wristwatch with no compromises or distracting decoration, which is a feature of every Seiko diving watch.
3. MOVEMENT
Three separate movement versions are used in Seiko dive watches. First, we have self-winding automatic or mechanical movements (such as the 6R35 in the Shogun), which work by harnessing kinetic energy from the wearer’s natural movements.
Other dive watches make use of quartz. This means they’re powered by a battery, which sends an electric current through the quartz crystal, causing vibration and oscillation. The oscillating movement’s electric pulse then powers a small electric motor, which spins the gears in the watch.
The final set of diving watches employs solar energy and works by turning light energy into electrical energy, which is then stored in a rechargeable battery and used to power the watch. The 6R15 calibre was used in the first generation of the Shogun, while the 6R35 calibre is used in the second generation.
The latter is a development of the 6R15 movement and is present in several Prospex watches in the mid-range price range. Despite the fact that it is not a very accurate movement, it is durable, trustworthy, easy to service, and provides excellent value for money. In terms of accuracy and convenience, quartz divers win.
Even though the Shogun’s 6R15 and 6R35 perform their function and are reliable power horses, their precision is mediocre. They can be found in diving watches ranging from $300 to $600, including well-known models like as the ‘Sumo’ (Seiko SPB103J1) and the Seiko Prospex Recreation (Ref. SPB053J1).
4. DESIGN
When compared to other Seiko dive watches, the Shogun has the similar layout but offers something extra. The interplay of sharp angles and smooth surfaces that mix brilliantly with light and shadow to create a remarkable visual impact is the element of beauty in The Shogun.
The rounded sides and integrated lugs of the SPB189 and SPB191 are common divers watch features, but the sharp lines and resilience of the Shogun are extremely different.
Seiko knows better than to mess with a winning formula, therefore every popular feature from the Prospex series can be found here. I’m referring to the overall design (which resembles a Samurai watch), the reasonable pricing, and, of course, the general performance.
So there are no huge modifications, just minor adjustments that make the watch appear more angular, generating a lovely contrast of light on one side and shadow on the other to produce an element of beauty.
The Shogun is fundamentally similar to other Seiko dive watches, with a polished and brushed casing, screwed case back, screw-down crown (all assuring a 200m water resistance), and a very visible dial.
5. PRICE
In terms of value for money, the Seiko Shogun competes with other Seiko diving watches. When it comes to pricing, the Seiko Shogun is competitive in the dive watch market.
The Seiko Monster, for example, costs roughly $250. The Seiko Samurai costs roughly $525, while the Seiko Turtle costs around $400. The Seiko Tuna series, famed for its endurance, can cost anywhere between $300 to $800, depending on the model and condition.
While these other diving watches have interesting features and prices, the Seiko Shogun remains an appealing option.
The Seiko Shogun stands out on its own, but because the case and strap are made of titanium, it is one of the most expensive entry-level dive watches from the Japanese Giant Watchmaker. Titanium watches are more expensive than stainless steel watches.
Despite the fact that the latter is plentiful and readily available, it is more difficult to process and costs more to purchase and maintain, therefore the greater price.
Whether you’re a sports fan, looking for adventure, or simply appreciate a high-quality dive watch, the Seiko Shogun delivers a compelling package that will wow you; however, expect to pay a little extra for it.
SHOULD YOU BUY A SEIKO “SHOGUN”?
The Shogun is a watch that commands immediate attention. The Shogun costs between $1,200 and $3,500 for a new model, depending on the vendor and model, and its titanium case distinguishes it from other watches in the Seiko Prospex range. Here are four reasons why you should consider purchasing a Seiko Shogun.
The price is simply fantastic.
The Shogun is a timepiece that is synonymous with high quality, fit, and finish. When you hold it in your hands, you will immediately see the superb quality. The watch is built to be tough, trustworthy, and long-lasting.
It is made of high-quality materials.
Titanium is one of the strongest materials available, with a greater strength-to-density ratio than stainless steel. The Shogun’s strong case and band will ensure endurance and durability, making it a watch you may wear every day for years without showing any signs of wear. Seiko has never sacrificed durability in the creation of any component, including the movement, and this does not alter with the Shogun.
Every detail has been improved for legibility.
The excellent level of legibility can be noticed in practically every aspect, from the hands to the hour markers and bezel. You must be able to read a watch in order to use it for underwater exploration. Seiko is well aware of this, and the Shogun will always be one of the most legible divers. The use of Lumibrite on the hands, indexes, and bezel allows time to be read correctly from any angle and depth, adding to the watch’s appeal.
200 meters of water resistance.
The Shogun’s water resistance rating makes the dive watch dependable and appropriate for both the sport for which it is called and a wide range of underwater excursions. It can also be worn while sailing, surfing, or fishing.
In terms of availability and cost. The SPB189 and SPB191 are commonly accessible and may be obtained from authorised Seiko dealers worldwide. A pre-owned Shogun may be purchased for anywhere from $750 to $1,350, but you can acquire a new piece of the Shogun SPB189 here and Shogun SPB191 here for $ and $1,350, respectively.
CONCLUSION
Let’s be real. The Seiko Shogun is not suitable for everyone. If you enjoy the idea of a timepiece with a commanding presence, enormous size, and high-end features, this is an excellent choice. However, the size and muscle mass may not appeal to everyone, which is perfectly OK.
Seiko’s range contains alternatives that can provide many of the Shogun’s features and charm. The Shogun, on the other hand, will always be one of Seiko’s iconic dive watches, cherished by loyal collectors for its toughness and lightweight titanium case.
James Cameron, an Oscar-winning director, is renowned for producing some of the highest-grossing films ever, such as “Avatar” and “Titanic.” In addition to shooting films, he has a passionate interest in deep-sea exploration, which is shown in his desire to attempt risky underwater tasks.
The adventurer and environmentalist was already wearing a Submariner before becoming a Rolex ambassador, which is what makes him the ideal brand representative.
He was an enthusiastic young scuba diver who was always looking for the ideal clock for his diving expeditions. He bought his first Rolex Submariner in 1986, and he has kept it by his side ever since for more than 30 years.
As a result, Rolex decided to launch a model in James Cameron’s honour in 2014 as a way of paying honour to the Hollywood director. Let’s learn everything there is to know about James Cameron Rolex watches in this article. The Sea-Dweller Deepsea James Cameron Edition was a rare honour that was well deserved.
ABOUT THE JAMES CAMERON ROLEX
The king of luxury watches, Rolex, is known for never bending the law for anyone. All of that changed in 2014 with the debut of the Rolex DeepSea D-Blue, which served as a tribute to Canadian director James Cameron.
It all began in 2012 when James Cameron made the bold decision to dive solo into the Mariana Trench’s deepest section, shattering the previous record of Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh from 1960.
In the course of the mission, he was accompanied by the Rolex Deep Sea Special in the submersible “Deepsea Challenge,” and he made a solo dive that was the deepest ever made at 10,898 metres. To honour this achievement, Rolex unveiled the 50mm Rolex Deepsea Challenge.
An astounding 12,000 metres of water resistance have been reached by the watch. It is made to endure the intense pressures found at great depths in the ocean. Even after a staggering 11,000-meter dive, the original prototype mounted to the diving vessel’s exterior had its COSC-certified Calibre 3135 unharmed.
The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea “D-Blue,” also referred to as the “James Cameron” edition, was made available as a result of the expedition’s success. The Deepsea 116660 D-Blue was first released in 2014, and the Deepsea 126660 D-Blue, which was revised and introduced in 2018, has a better calibre and a 72-hour power reserve.
With its Chromalight luminous indices and a downward-pointing triangle at the zero markings, both references provide remarkable readability. Both references have a sturdy shell, helium valves for pressure balance, an adjustable Oyster bracelet for comfortable wear over diving suits, and a water resistance of up to 3,900 metres.
Unquestionably, the James Cameron Rolex is a symbol of tenacity, exploration, and a sense of adventure.
JAMES CAMERON ROLEX DEEPSEA SEA-DWELLER REF.136660-0003
The James Cameron Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller ref. 136660-0003 is regarded as the ideal tribute to an outstanding accomplishment and represents Rolex’s dedication to innovation and technical perfection. Let’s examine a clock in more detail that defies the laws of horology.
THE CASE
This timepiece’s casing is made of robust 44mm Oystersteel. Since 1985, Rolex has produced oystersteel, a stainless alloy that is famed for maintaining its beauty and brilliance after polishing under all conditions. Oystersteel is created from high-performance steel of grade 904L.
The whole finish is quite high quality and gives you the impression that you are wearing a watch that is ready to dive. It is immaculate, precise, and sharp—exactly what you would expect from a Rolex. Oystersteel is renowned for its ability to flourish in the most trying circumstances and to emanate a rough elegance.
The Triplock triple waterproofness mechanism, which assures a watertight seal and keeps the watch accurate at depths up to 12,800 feet, is installed in the screw-down crown, which is guarded on all sides. The case back, which is constructed of titanium and gives a touch of lightweight strength to this deep-sea buddy, measures around 12.5mm in height.
The scratch-resistant Cerachrom insert in ceramic is adorned with platinum numbers and graduations on the unidirectional rotatable bezel. It’s a piece of art as well as a useful instrument. The 5.5mm-thick domed sapphire crystal, which bravely resists scratches and provides crystal-clear viewing, tops it all off.
THE DIAL
The Ref.136660-0003’s sunray brushed dial keeps the same design as the Submariner line. With a two-color gradient that changes from bright blue to bottomless black, it is the epitome of aesthetic and practical harmony. It honours Cameron’s expedition to the Mariana Trench’s depths.
Its Chromalight display emits a bright blue luminosity that lasts longer than conventional lume, illuminating even the deepest caverns. The handset has the same design as the hour markers, which are a traditional arrangement of dots, rectangles, and a triangle at 12 o’clock.
At 12 o’clock, you’ll see the Rolex coronet emblem and brand name, and at 6 o’clock, you’ll see the neon green “Deepsea” writing on the watch, which represents the colour of the diving vessel. The classic literature and the word “Sea-Dweller” are also visible, and a date window is located at 3 o’clock. Overall, the dial is incredibly readable and shows an impressive execution of all the elements—a accomplishment that has long shown its efficacy.
BRACELET
On a Rolex Oyster bracelet, the James Cameron Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller Ref.136660-0003 is shown. The sturdy bracelet only serves as evidence of Rolex’s dedication to comfort and durability. Oystersteel, the brand’s exclusive 904L steel, is used in a 3-link structure to ensure a strong connection and breathability.
It has a similar quality to the case, with polished sides and full brushing on its flat surfaces. The brand’s Glidelock extension system enables the length of the bracelet to be altered without removing the watch from the wrist, while the Oysterlock clasp guards against any unintentional openings.
You may easily customise the fit of the bracelet by using its tool-free fine adjustment capabilities to account for the size of your wrist or even to make it coexist nicely with a diving suit.
MOVEMENT
The Rolex calibre 3235 powers the Deepsea Sea-Dweller Ref.136660-0003. This automatic movement enhances the calibre 3135, which it replaces, with more durable, accurate, and dependable characteristics.
This movement, which was first introduced at Baselworld 2015 within the 39mm Pearlmaster, is the pinnacle of horological perfection and has a precision of -2/+2 seconds every day. The movement is resistant to magnetic fields and unexpected bumps thanks to the paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, respectively.
The new Chronergy escapement, which comprises of an escape wheel and a pallet fork, helps to increase the power reserve from 48 to 70 hours. The Deepsea Sea-Dweller 136660-0003 is a tribute to Rolex’s dedication to accuracy and craftsmanship, with its 31 perfectly set gems.
WHAT IF YOU WANT TO GO DEEPER?
James Cameron steered the Deepsea Challenger (DCV 1), a 7.3-meter deep-diving submersible, to the bottom of the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean on March 26, 2012. Acheron Project Pty Ltd created the Deepsea Challenger in Sydney, Australia, with assistance from Rolex and a cooperation with the National Geographic Society.
Cameron made multiple attempts to submerge the submersible into the ocean before the investigation. Due to unforeseen difficulties, the research had to be abandoned twice, leaving Cameron submerged beneath the water’s surface.
His childhood goal came true on March 26 when he successfully flew the Deepsea Challenger to the bottom of the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean, which is approximately 11 kilometres (36,000 ft) deep. This fourth dive to the Challenger Deep took two hours and 36 minutes to complete and set a new record for the longest solo dive ever.
James Cameron spent a lot of time studying the bottom during the expedition, and the Rolex Deepsea Challenge dive watch kept time perfectly for almost seven hours. With a two-color gradient dial that reflects the bright blue ocean surface to the bottomless black and honours an icon’s voyage to the deepest point on Earth, the Rolex Deepsea pays tribute to this historic dive.
WHAT WATCH DOES JAMES CAMERON ACTUALLY WEAR?
James Cameron, a director, is seen wearing a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 16610. It is expected of him as a Rolex spokesperson that he frequently sports different Rolex timepieces. The Sub 16610, on the other hand, has been his devoted friend for years.
The director rewarded himself with a Rolex Submariner 16610 following the success of his 1986 movie “Aliens.” Strangely, James Cameron has worn the same watch for 37 years.
While James Cameron’s loyalty to Rolex is beyond question, it’s clear that Submariner 16610 occupies a special place in his heart.
He has worn the watch on 33 dives to the Titanic disaster in addition to wearing it on other film shoots and notable occasions like the Oscars. His early dreams are reflected in the Rolex Submariner.
Cameron has admired the Submariner as the pinnacle diving watch since he first started diving. He claimed that the watch represented dedication and skill and had been essential to his underwater explorations, from the Titanic to the Mariana Trench.
Despite owning a collection of the top luxury watch manufacturers. The devotion Cameron has for his Submariner is unmatched. Because he could interact with a group of like-minded people who share similar objectives for the Ocean, Cameron claimed that the Submariner had provided him a lot of access.
CONCLUSION
There is no doubt that the “James Cameron Rolex” is well-known and esteemed in the watch industry. It is acknowledged as the first watch to honour an individual’s personality and is viewed as a monument to Cameron’s adventurous spirit of discovery. Its unique fusion of toughness and sophistication will go down in history as a landmark that will motivate countless people to always push limits and climb uncharted heights.
If you enjoy wearing watches, you’ve probably heard of this watchmaker. Few names inspire as much mystery and reverence as Hamilton. For more than a century, this Swiss watch company with American roots has produced high-quality watches. But how wonderful are Hamilton timepieces?
We’ll delve into the brand’s heritage, significant collections, and the reasons why Hamilton might be a suitable fit for your next timepiece in this in-depth assessment. We’ll also talk about the distinctive qualities of their well-known collections, like the Khaki Field and the Jazzmaster. Keep reading to see if Hamilton watches retain their worth and who might want to consider purchasing one.
ABOUT HAMILTON WATCHES
Lancaster, Pennsylvania is where Hamilton, a Swiss watch company, was first established in 1892. The company is well-respected in the watchmaking business and is renowned for its blend of Swiss accuracy and dependability with a strong American tradition. The whole watch industry values their watches.
THE HISTORY OF HAMILTON
Along with other well-known American watchmakers like Elgin, Waltham, Ingersoll, and Timex, Hamilton had its start as a major watchmaker. The Lancaster Watch Company was one of three watch companies that had previously occupied the same spaces and were replaced by the new business.
Abram Bitner established Keystone Standard Watch Co. in 1886; it was an avant-garde forerunner of Hamilton.
When Keystone was in danger of going bankrupt, it was sold to the future Hamilton Watch Company. The name “Hamilton” was selected in recognition of James Hamilton, the son of Scottish-born lawyer Andrew Hamilton, the original owner of the Lancaster property where the factory was built.
The company initially concentrated on manufacturing precise pocket timepieces for railway workers only. Hamilton later produced timepieces for pilots who deliver airmail from coast to coast as a result of this dedication. Hamilton’s priority during World War II turned to producing watches for the military, including deck watches and marine chronometers for the U.S. Navy.
The Hamilton Electric 500, the first electric watch ever made, as well as the enduring Ventura model, famous for its asymmetrical triangular casing and association with Elvis Presley, were both unveiled by Hamilton in 1957. After acquiring the Buren Watch Company in the 1960s and shifting all production to Switzerland, Hamilton entered its Swiss era.
They continued to pursue excellence, which led to their 1974 incorporation into the Swatch Group, the largest watch manufacturing and marketing organisation in the world with headquarters in Bienne, Switzerland. Many factors contribute to Hamilton’s current popularity among watch aficionados. Its reputation is greatly influenced by its durable and fashionable watches as well as its contemporary reissues of vintage timepieces.
ARE HAMILTON WATCHES GOOD?
Let’s examine five of the reasons why Hamilton watches are frequently regarded as excellent choices for watch aficionados in order to respond to the question, “Are Hamilton watches good?”
SWISS BRAND WITH AMERICAN HERITAGE
Hamilton stands apart from other watch brands thanks to its distinctive fusion of Swiss accuracy and American passion. Originally, the Hamilton Watch Company was an American watchmaker. Hamilton’s relationship with The Swatch Group dates back to 1969, when the American firm was acquired by the Swiss corporation SSIH (Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère).
The R&D divisions of ASUAG and SSIH consolidated their production operations at the ETA complex in Granges in 1983 in an effort to unify and enhance the Swiss watch industry. The firm was renamed The Swatch Group five years later, in 1988, and it still produces Omega, Hamilton, and a number of other brands.
With the help of Swiss-made ETA movements and this mix, Hamilton is able to create clocks of a high calibre while yet adhering to its own distinctive design aesthetic.
TONS OF WATCH DESIGNS AVAILABLE
The wide variety of watch styles offered by Hamilton is one of its key selling points. Their collections feature aesthetics drawn from topics related to aviation, film, the military, and American classics. They can reach a large audience thanks to their breadth.
Hamilton watches are available in a wide range of styles. It’s also important to note that Hamilton’s broad design selection doesn’t sacrifice quality. All of their models receive the right treatment, including the ones who typically receive less focus.
The American influence on Hamilton gives their designs a distinctive flavour. They incorporate both a traditional and modern aesthetic.
AFFORDABLE SWISS-MADE WATCHES
Hamilton is renowned for selling inexpensive Swiss timepieces. For those looking for a high-quality timepiece without breaking the bank, this makes them an appealing option. Although the term “affordable” is a relative one, let’s change our perspective to include the favourites of the world’s watch enthusiasts while excluding budget brands with subpar craftsmanship. Hamilton’s pricing, which range from $300 to $3000, are affordable for the majority of watch enthusiasts.
DURABLE & RELIABLE
Hamilton timepieces are renowned for their dependability and sturdiness. Because of how well-made they are, Hamilton has gained a lot of respect from the watch industry.
MATERIALS
The timepieces made by Hamilton are constructed using premium components. Their stainless steel watch casings, which are strong and resistant to corrosion, are used on the majority of their clocks. Hamilton watches have sapphire crystal faces that are extremely scratch-resistant.
MOVEMENT
Typically, automatic movements—which are renowned for being dependable—are used in Hamilton watches. They have access to ETA movements because they are a division of the Swatch Group. Even in the self-winding movement sector, these movements are renowned for being among the most dependable.
WATER RESISTANCE
The continuous water resistance of Hamilton watches contributes to their longevity. The majority of their watch cases are constructed to endure pressures of up to 10 bar, which is equivalent to a 100m depth of water resistance. If you’re looking for more durable timepieces for water sports, the brand also offers many watches with enhanced water resistance.
Finally, despite the fact that some Hamilton watches have a 50m water resistant rating, the company’s military heritage and commitment to quality building contribute to a feeling of security regarding the longevity of all of its watches.
MAINTENANCE
Owning a watch requires ongoing upkeep. However, as evidence of the company’s emphasis on quality, these watches typically require fewer maintenance visits than average. They frequently have longer service gaps than the norm, but that doesn’t imply they shouldn’t receive the same level of care.
REPUTATION
Hamilton has built a solid reputation for quality and durability over its career as a supplier to the U.S. Army. It’s important to keep in mind, though, that every person will have a different experience with them, just as with any other product. Your watch’s durability will always be influenced by how it was used and maintained.
MOVIE ICONS
With more than 500 films using Hamilton watches to date, the company has a lengthy history of appearing in motion pictures.
MEN IN BLACK (1997)
Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones wore the Hamilton Ventura, with its shield-shaped casing, in this science fiction classic. The topic of the film complemented the watch well. “Futuristic” is the essential term.
INTERSTELLAR (2014)
The “Murph” watch was specially produced by Hamilton for this movie. It was a crucial storyline point. The watch served as a means of communication for the character played by Matthew McConaughey with his daughter Murphy (thus, “Murph”).
2001: A SPACE ODYSSEY (1968)
In this groundbreaking science fiction film, Stanley Kubrick hired Hamilton to design the future wristwatch and clock that were utilised on the spacecraft.
THE MARTIAN (2015)
In the movie, Matt Damon’s astronaut Mark Watney sports a Hamilton Khaki Navy BelowZero. The watch’s design made it the ideal survival tool for Mars.
DIE HARD (1988)
John McClane, played by Bruce Willis, has a Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900 LED digital watch. One of the original digital timepieces was this one, with its red LED display. The 1970s saw a pinnacle in its appeal.
TENET (2020)
Once more, Hamilton collaborated with a Christopher Nolan movie, this time making a unique prop watch for “Tenet.” The watch played a crucial role in the movie’s plot and included a digital countdown display.
Overall, Hamilton’s association with Hollywood gives its timepieces an added degree of appeal and makes them iconic in their own way.
MOST NOTABLE HAMILTON WATCH COLLECTIONS
After discussing the merits of Hamilton watches, let’s take a closer look at some of their most well-known lines:
HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD
The Khaki Field series, which includes automatic and quartz watches in a range of sizes and hues, draws inspiration from Hamilton’s military past. These timepieces are ideal for people who value a traditional field watch style. The watch’s matte black dial and luminous hands and hour markers give it a retro military look.
It is one of the least expensive Swiss watches available due to its automatic calibre H-10 movement. The watch has a 38mm stainless steel casing that is manageable and comfy, making it perfect for people who prefer smaller timepieces or have smaller wrists. The stainless steel band that it comes with adds a touch of elegance to the formal appearance.
HAMILTON AMERICAN CLASSIC
The authentic Hamilton classic line is represented by the American Classic line. The line brings back various historical designs, such as the well-known RailRoad watch and the antique Boulton watch. The Intra-Matic H38416711, one of the most sought-after watches in the American Classic line, is one of the many famous models. It has a black tachymeter ring and subdials.
A self-winding H-31 movement with a 60-hour power reserve powers the watch. This movement, which runs at a greater frequency of 28,800, is based on the well-known Valjoux 7753 mechanism. For those who value a hint of nostalgia in their timepieces, the series is ideal.
HAMILTON KHAKI AVIATION
Pilot’s timepieces from the Khaki Aviation series are available with a variety of features, from straightforward three-hand designs to intricate chronographs and GMT versions. They feature a unique bidirectional slide rule bezel in their design.
Using the bezel and some basic math, this feature provides in-flight cockpit calculations for things like airspeed, distance, fuel consumption, and a range of unit conversions that aren’t necessary relevant to flight. The 21-Si movement from Hamilton, which has a silicon balance spring and a 60-hour power reserve, powers the watches.
Day-date display, 12-hour counter at 6, running seconds counter at 9, and 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock are also included. Aviation fans are proud to display these timepieces because of their emphasis on legibility and use.
HAMILTON JAZZMASTER
Elegant dress watches with various complexity, including open-heart designs, power reserve indicators, and chronographs, are available in the Jazzmaster series. They combine traditional design with cutting-edge technology. There are many different types of watches for both men and women in the selection. The watches are made of stainless steel, and some variants have full or partial gold plating.
They range in size, with a diameter of 27 to 46 mm. The sub-collections of the Jazzmaster collection each have a range of distinctive characteristics. For instance, the Viewmatic Skeleton Gent Auto offers a view of the movement’s escapement, mainspring, and barrel through a skeletonized dial, and the Day-Date series clearly displays the day below 12 o’clock.
Conversely, diving watches are part of the Seaview line. The Open Heart watches have an exposed balance that is visible through a cutout, while the Regulator watches show the hours and minutes separately on the dial. These elegant watches are ideal for people looking for a watch that can be worn on both formal and informal situations.
HAMILTON KHAKI NAVY
Dive watches from the Khaki Navy collection come in a variety of designs, from bold, contemporary forms to retro-inspired ones. It has been around for a while and features a full black or two-tone bezel inlay, quartz or automatic variants, numerous dial colours, choices of straps, and a steel bracelet.
A screw-down crown shielded by two crown guards, a sapphire crystal top, and a unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert to match the dial distinguish the collection’s Khaki Navy Scuba 43mm model. The watch has a Powermatic 80 calibre H-10 automatic movement from Swatch.
Hamilton chose to omit the date indication from the Khaki Navy Scuba 43mm watch even though the base movement has one. It comes with either a steel bracelet with a folding clasp or a matte black rubber strap with a pin buckle. All of the items in the collection are ideal for those who prefer water-based activities because they are all focused on durability and water resistance.
DO HAMILTON WATCHES HOLD THEIR VALUE?
Hamilton watches are still regarded as wise investments even though they might not maintain their worth as well as high-end brands like Rolex or Patek Philippe. Instead of as a financial investment, Hamilton watches should be chosen for their quality, style, and dependability. A Hamilton watch can endure a lifetime and be passed down to future generations with the right upkeep and care.
SHOULD YOU BUY A HAMILTON WATCH?
If you’re looking for a well-made, reasonably priced, Swiss-made watch with a distinctive design, Hamilton might be the best option for you. The company is known for its high standards of quality and dependability and its wide variety of styles. Everyone from casual wearers to expert collectors can benefit from Hamilton timepieces.
CONCLUSION
In conclusion, Hamilton watches are excellent because they combine Swiss accuracy with American tradition. They offer a wide variety of styles at reasonable pricing. A Hamilton watch won’t let you down if you’re searching for a dependable, well-made timepiece; in fact, it might be the ideal addition to your collection.
One of their marketing efforts says, “Every Rolex tells a story.” But because of their significance in history or popular culture, certain Rolexes have more to say than others.
Because of these connections, some of these watches have acquired nicknames. And a few have become so popular among watch collectors and aficionados that they might be regarded as “official” despite not being listed in the Rolex catalogue.
Here are some of the most well-known nicknames for Rolex watches and their origin stories:
THE PRESIDENT : Rolex President Day-Date
The Rolex Day-Date, which debuted in 1956, earned the moniker “President” after the brand donated one to Dwight Eisenhower. Other Presidents, including Ford, Johnson, Nixon, Kennedy, Reagan, and others, have since sported it on their wrists.
JAMES BOND : Rolex Submarinerref. 6538
In the James Bond films Dr. No, From Russia with Love, Goldfinger, and Thunderball, Sean Connery wore the Submariner ref. 6538. Connery wore the watch, which is distinguished by its large crown and the absence of any crown guards, on a striped textile strap.
STEVE MCQUEEN : Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655
The watch’s moniker is a reference to American actor Steve McQueen, whose fame Rolex helped this very obscure timepiece gain popularity in the 1970s. Its distinctive feature, a sizable, vivid orange 24-hour hand, was created for speleologists.
PAUL NEWMAN : Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref 6239, 6241, 6262, 6263, 6264, or 6265
For their Daytona watches in the 1960s, Rolex created a “exotic dial” with an art deco font and 15/30/45/60 numbers on the 9 o’clock subdials. The model is now more frequently regarded to in watch circles as the Paul Newman because the iconic actor and racing car driver was so frequently spotted wearing it.
JAMES CAMERON : Rolex Seadweller Deepsea ref. 116660
In 2012, Deepsea Challenger, a submersible boat, was created by director James Cameron in collaboration with Rolex and other businesses. For a new movie, he flew it personally and dove 11,000 metres into the Pacific Ocean to capture the experience. To mark the accomplishment of the voyage, the watch was made.
Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi ref. 1675, 16750, 16710, 116719
The GMT-Master II, which debuted in 1955, was designed as a pilot’s watch and had a bi-color bezel to aid distinguish between day and night. The first design included a blue and red bezel that was made to match the corporate colours of Pan-Am Airlines and that was eerily similar to the logo of the well-known soda.
ROOTBEER : Rolex GMT-Master ref 1675/3 & 16753
Rolex debuted a two-tone GMT-Master ref. 1657/3 in steel and yellow gold in the early 1960s. They added a brown and gold bezel insert to match with this combination, giving the watch its rootbeer colour. The GMT-Master II 16753, which also featured the rootbeer bezel, was introduced by Rolex in the 1980s.
COKE : Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16710
On the first GMT-Master II model, Rolex introduced the black and red bezel combo. In keeping with the GMT-Master II’s soda-themed nickname, the watch rapidly earned the moniker “Coke” in allusion to the colours of the beverage brand.
BATMAN : GMT-Master II ref. 116710
The Cerachrome ceramic bezel of the Batman GMT-Master II model, which is arguably the most popular one now on the market, is black and blue. It is unique in that two-tone production of the ceramic bezel was thought to be unachievable when Rolex initially launched it, but they eventually managed to do so with the Batman.
HULK : GMT-Master II ref. 116610LV
The Hulk is the moniker of a 2010 Submariner with a green Cerachrom bezel and green dial that was undoubtedly inspired by the fictional green hero from Marvel Comics. It’s the first time Rolex has employed a bezel with a colour other than black or blue.
Since its debut in 1967, the Omega De Ville range has represented a posh aesthetic that stands in contrast to sports models.
The Omega De Ville is distinguished by a clean, timeless design, superior movements, and a distinguished pedigree. Learn about the history of the Omega Seamaster De Ville as it marks its golden anniversary.
One of the safest watch brands to purchase is Rolex, according to repute. Rolex has continually produced high-quality timepieces for all occasions since their founding in 1905. From well-known players like Tiger Woods and Roger Federer to numerous US Presidents who spurred the creation of the Day-Date’s nickname, the “President,” we have observed the Rolex crown on the wrist of many significant leaders throughout history.
We can all agree that Rolex has done a remarkable job creating and sustaining such a highly regarded position in the watch market, which has led to them becoming a terrific brand to invest in.
DO ROLEXES APPRECIATE IN VALUE AS THEY AGE?
Rolexes are excellent investment items in general, but that doesn’t guarantee yours will appreciate in value the moment you take it out of the box. Rarity is the best measure of a Rolex’s value. Due to their scarcity or rarity on the market, certain references over the course of Rolex’s illustrious history have garnered significant value.
This is well illustrated by the growing interest in antique Submariners. As antique Submariner references are more difficult to locate in better condition, there has been a discernible rise in demand for them. Certain Rolexes have a higher value because of the theory of scarcity. Some of these references make it to the auction rooms of Sotheby’s or Phillips and sell for millions of dollars, while others are sold in the grey market online or through dealers for three times their retail price.
Modern Rolexes are still quite popular today. Rolex had to form waitlists for brand-new Rolex models due to the demand being so great. Before getting a brand-new watch, people on the queue might have to wait a few years. The market for pre-owned Rolex is flourishing as a result. Market prices for several popular models are far higher than their suggested retail prices.
The quality of the watch, both inside and out, is what important, whether you want to buy a modern watch or a vintage Rolex. Rolex watches that are consistently serviced and kept in good condition qualify as investments. These two elements will lengthen the life of your watch and may even raise its worth.
TOP 5 ROLEXES THAT HOLD THEIR VALUE
PAUL NEWMAN DAYTONA
Paul Newman, an actor, director, and race car driver, was the wrist on which this Daytona gained its notoriety. The Daytona he wore on his wrist attracted a lot of attention whether he was filming a scene or driving around the circuit. This watch has grown in popularity as a result of increased attention from collectors and fans of Rolex sport models.
Only 2,000–3,000 of these ancient machines from the 1960s–1970s are still in use today, and a few of them have even been sold at auction for millions of dollars. The real Paul Newman Daytona (Ref. 6239), which sold for $17.8 million at Phillips Auction House in 2017, holds the record for being the most expensive watch ever sold.
Paul Newman helped the Daytona develop enormous fame, and Rolex made the decision to capitalise on it. The Daytona, named after one of America’s major racing venues, is a shining illustration of the unmatched performance, luxury, and style that Rolex’s sport models provide. Each Cosmograph Daytona is an intriguing watch to collect and invest in because they are made with a broad range of dials, case materials, and colours.
There are various Cosmopgraphs available on the market, making them more accessible than the Paul Newman Daytona. These Daytonas are readily available, but due to their tremendous demand, they continue to trade for two to three times their retail price. A wise Rolex purchase is the Cosmograph Daytona.
The Milgauss resembles an elusive Rolex in various ways. This watch was created with the scientist in mind and debuted in 1956. The Milgauss was designed for those who would work in a lab or in the field near intense magnetic fields because of its extremely high magnetic field resistance. Although Rolex accomplished an amazing feat of ingenuity with this watch, the orange lightning bolt seconds hand is what really draws attention to it.
After being phased out in 1988, the Milgauss disappeared for over 20 years. Rolex resumed manufacturing the updated Milgauss in 2007. The same orange lightning bolt is present on this timepiece, but it now also has a sapphire crystal with a green tinge, which improves readability. The pre-2007 models are getting harder to find and more valuable amid the many new models that are flooding the market because of the significant production gap.
The GMT Master II, one of Rolex’s best-selling models, is a superb illustration of a timepiece with lasting value. The GMT, which was initially designed for pilots and travellers, has a separate hand on the dial to show another time zone. Travellers would be able to monitor their current location’s time and their destination’s time concurrently.
This wristwatch quickly rose to fame. The GMT’s multicoloured 24-hour bezel is its most distinctive feature. Due to the two colours on the GMT bezel, these models were given the nicknames “Pepsi”, “Coke”, and “Batman”. Due to their rarity, vintage models with a “patina” or faded dial are now in great demand.
The modern GMT is likewise a highly sought-after item on the market today, even if vintage GMTs are in high demand. The GMT maintains a prominent position on the list of Rolexes worth investing in thanks to a combination of modernised designs and even a “left handed” edition with the crown on the left side of the watch.
The Oyster Perpetual has consistently been relatively underrated despite being Rolexe’s entry-level timepiece. Despite being a Rolex classic, the straightforward design never received as much attention as the more well-known Datejusts and Submariners. 2020 was a significant year for the Oyster Perpetual because Rolex introduced new versions that gained widespread attention.
With the new OPs, Rolex unveiled a new movement and a larger case size, but the unveiling of a wide range of dial colours won over the public. Today, Oyster Perpetuals come in eye-catching hues including turquoise, light pink, yellow, and green. These new versions are currently selling for significantly more than the suggested retail price.
DO SUBMARINERS HOLD THEIR VALUE?
There are a few sport models that Rolex manufactures that have a reputation for steadily holding or rising in value over time. The Submariner is one of Rolexe’s most recognisable watches, and many other watch companies have taken influence from the distinctive dive watch design. It is a superb tool watch that is well worth the money because of its strength, water resistance, in-house movement, and exquisite appearance.
The Submariner was first presented in 1953 as a dive watch with a 100-meter water resistance. Divers can time their dives with the help of the revolving 60-minute bezel. These watches were designed to have a large amount of lume on the dial. Over time, cult followings for particular models have developed among aficionados. The “Hulk” and “Kermit” are two well-known green submariner variants that are getting harder to locate.
In addition to having stylish hues, they’ve both been discontinued, making them extremely rarer. In order to find the most rare references, vintage Submariner fans enjoy to compare the minutiae from reference to reference. The font, logo size, and colour scheme for the lettering on the dial were all important aspects on these antique Rolexes.
Rolex raised the Submariner’s case size in 1959 and 2020. The first gold Sub was released in 1969, while the first two-tone was offered in 1984. The enthusiasm started as collectors started to notice the little differences between references. Each of these elements has the potential to significantly raise the watch’s value.
Great watches, submariners have a lot of sales potential right now. They have historically done an outstanding job of maintaining their value through time and, in many circumstances, increasing in value. Submariners provide fantastic financial opportunities as well as the ability to participate in Rolex history.
DO DATEJUSTS HOLD THEIR VALUE?
One of Rolexes most classic models is the Datejust. This watch, which was created in 1945, was highlighted during Rolexes’ 40th anniversary. Because to the Oyster case, a waterproof design initially presented in 1926, it gained popularity. With a Datejust watch in a 36mm size, it was suitable for both men and women. Rolex didn’t release a 41mm Datejust until 2009 for those who preferred the same style in a larger case.
The Datejust keeps developing and modernising both aesthetically and technically with each new Rolex model. A 50-hour power reserve, COSC-certified chronometer movement is also included with modern Datejust watches. The Datejust 36 is a timepiece that can be completely customised. Numerous variations are available for various bands, dial colours, bezels, and metals.
Consider the quality and originality of your Datejust before making any aftermarket modifications if you plan to use it as an investment item. A bespoke Rolex does not ensure an increase in value in the preowned or vintage markets as much as originality may. The materials, reference number, and age of a Datejust can all affect its worth.
Depending on the aforementioned criteria, the value of a Datejust today might range from below to over retail price. This watch most likely won’t experience any significant price fluctuations in the near future, unlike a vintage Sub or a rare GMT, but that doesn’t rule out the possibility that it will appreciate over time.
When compared to other Rolex models, a Datejust may not appear like the most reliable investment, but their prices have followed the same trend over the past century and have gradually risen.
BEST ROLEX TO BUY FOR INVESTMENT
The stainless steel sports models from Rolex are a no-brainer when it comes to purchasing one. They are renowned for maintaining their value quite well and frequently seeing significant value increases. These three timepieces—the GMT Master II, Cosmograph Daytona, and Submariner—make excellent investment choices. Models that come in a range of colours frequently have the potential to appreciate in value as the market changes.
Rolex’s global appeal is growing, making it simpler for different models to develop cult followings and become scarce quickly. The GMT “Batman” and Submariner “Hulk” are two instances of watches that have developed a cult following and are now much more expensive than they were a few years ago.
Another excellent option for a Rolex investment piece is the GMT Master II. Since its creation, the GMT has been in high demand, and it will probably continue to be so as long as they are produced. It is a useful tool for folks who travel or work abroad because it can show numerous time zones at once.
The GMT also has a Rolex in-house movement, which guarantees accuracy and longevity backed by Rolex. Although intended as a tool watch for pilots, the striking design has drawn many admirers from outside the aviation industry. The two-toned bezels that pop with colour and the high contrast dials that attract the attention inwards are appreciated by design enthusiasts. Since then, the GMT has evolved into more of a statement timepiece, adorning the wrists of rakish fans and sartorialists alike.
Another Rolex that is excellent for investment is the Day Date. The Day Date was made with status and opulence in mind. It was the first self-winding, waterproof watch to have a window at the top of the dial that read the day of the week and displayed the date. This revolutionary design quickly gained popularity and turned into a sought-after timepiece.
The Day Date is referred to by Rolex as “the ultimate status watch.” They are made of 18k gold or platinum, which normally has a significant impact on the retail price but also promises to have a high resale value. The Day Date’s classic style enables you to wear it for years on end without worrying about its value eroding.
The Explorer II is a Rolex that hasn’t yet been addressed in this article but should still be acknowledged. The Explorer II is renowned for its 24 hour bezel, 100 metre water resistance and cyclops over the date display. The Explorer II is a watch that was made to withstand the test of time because it was constructed using Rolexe’s most expensive and durable stainless steel and had a vivid lume on the indexes.
The new “Polar Dial” Explorers have a huge orange GMT hand that stands out against the clean black or white dial, giving them the ability to track several time zones in addition to creating a unique look. The Explorer, hence its name, was designed for today’s adventurer who might encounter difficult or harsh circumstances. The Explorer maintains its value steadily now. Expect your watch’s value to progressively increase over time, much like Rolexes do, rather than to increase at random.
The watches on the above list include some of the most popular Rolexes on the market right now. The Sea-Dweller, Yacht-Master, and Air-King are just a few of the other Rolex models that have strong value propositions as worthwhile investments. As we previously noted, the condition, features, and materials of your Rolex will always affect its worth, as will the market and the demands of current Rolex aficionados.
Although it appears that there will always be Rolex “classics” that we can depend on as collectors and aficionados when navigating the market and building our own collections of Rolexes, we also have no way of knowing which models will become popular in the future. Models like the Submariner “Hulk,” GMT “Batman,” and Oyster Perpetual “Turquoise” dial, as we’ve seen in recent years, have all seen a sharp rise in value as a result of market demand.
Knowing the Rolex catalog’s history and which models would make sensible investments is crucial when making a Rolex purchase. Making the ideal choice of model for you will be easier if you are familiar with the brand’s history and model line-up.
We urge you to take control of your education and conduct independent research about Rolex based on your preferences, values, and needs. Any aspiring aficionado will definitely be intrigued by the lengthy and varied history of Rolex.
DO ROLEXES EVER DEPRECIATE?
It is uncommon for a Rolex to experience a sharp decline in value over time because the company has established such a strong brand and reputation in the marketplace. Your Rolex will probably maintain its value quite well and occasionally even rise in value if it is kept in excellent condition during the period it is worn. Your GMT may appreciate in value as it ages or your Datejust may gradually lose some of its retail worth; it always depends on the make and model of your watch.
A well-kept and uncommon GMT or Submariner reference is worth a lot more on the vintage Rolex market than it did when it was originally purchased. A used-up, unserviced Datejust might not be as sought-after as a flawless, vintage one from the same year that’s in excellent shape. Although we cannot guarantee which Rolex will provide you with the maximum return on investment (ROI), we can promise that you won’t regret taking care of your watch to preserve the renown longevity and durability of the Rolex brand.
A chronometer and a chronograph are two different watch kinds with various certifications and functionalities. Although both phrases refer to measuring time, they have different meanings. The essential duties and capabilities of a chronometer and a chronograph are fundamentally different, even if it is feasible to gain chronometer certification for the movement used in a chronograph.
A Chronometer
A chronometer is made to measure time precisely regardless of outside variables like movement or temperature changes. Its beginnings can be found in 1714, when the British government organised a competition to create a watch for use on ships. As a result, the marine chronometer was developed, allowing sailors to precisely determine longitude. Today, a timepiece that has undergone independent testing, frequently by institutions like COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute), is referred regarded as a chronometer. The testing procedure assesses the watch’s accuracy in various environments and climates. A second hand is required on watches to be tested in order to provide accurate verification. The COSC specifications allow for a daily maximum variation of -4 to +6 seconds.
While only about 3% of Swiss timepieces receive this certification, several manufacturers, including Rolex and Breitling, certify each movement they use. These watches are more expensive than typical timepieces because they must be certified as chronometers, which has a cost. They do, however, measure time more precisely and with greater reliability. A precision test has recently been added to the Geneva Seal certification’s evaluation procedure.
A Chronograph
A chronograph, on the other hand, is a timepiece with added capability for timing events in addition to its standard timekeeping function. A chronograph maintains consistent timekeeping while allowing you to quantify the length of particular activities, in contrast to a stopwatch which only concentrates on timing events.
Simple or Standard Chronograph
Two buttons are used to operate the basic or ordinary chronograph: one to start and stop the timing operation and another to reset it. These buttons are often placed next to the watch’s crown, usually on the watch’s right side of the face.
Instead of measuring fractions of a second, the traditional chronograph frequently uses a central sweeping second hand that rotates fully every second. With the help of this function, you may precisely time occurrences with an accuracy of up to 1/10th of a second, which is typically enough for the needs of the majority of people.
Monopusher Chronograph
A single push-button-only chronograph is known as a monopusher chronograph. It was the chronograph watch’s initial design.
The chronograph may be started, stopped, and reset via the single pusher. It can be placed on either side of the watch case and frequently has a separate crown at 3 o’clock.
The fundamental limitation of a monopusher chronograph is its inability to measure more than one timer. The timer cannot be started or stopped, then resumed. Any previously recorded time is effectively lost once the timer is stopped because you must reset it to zero before you can begin timing again.
Flyback Chronograph
A chronograph type known as the flyback chronograph was created to meet the demand for multiple lap measurements while timing a run, a race, or any other activity involving laps.
With a chronograph of this kind, measuring time intervals is simple. There are various benefits to utilising a flyback chronograph as opposed to other types of chronographs, despite the fact that some people may think of it as merely another way to use the stopwatch function on a watch.
A flyback chronograph, in contrast to a traditional chronograph, has two pushers and a second function built into the lower reset button. Pressing the lower reset button while the timer is running instantly resets the main timer hand to zero without needing to click the top pusher once more. This makes it possible to time following intervals without delay and in an instant.
The Rattrapante or Split-Seconds Chronograph
The most complicated and frequently most expensive type of chronograph watch is the rattrapante, commonly known as a split-seconds chronograph. The triple-split chronograph is a device that is considerably more complex than the common rattrapante chronograph and can cost upwards of six figures.
The rattrapante chronograph features two buttons at the two and four o’clock positions in addition to a third pusher, which is normally placed on the opposite side of the watch case, around the ten o’clock position. The split-seconds feature is controlled by the third button. A second chronograph hand is concealed behind the primary one in split-seconds chronograph watches and is only visible when it is engaged.
Pressing the split-seconds button stops the higher of the two hands while the lower one continues to move forward when timing is started with the first pusher. This enables the simultaneous timing of two different events or contestants. As the first racer crosses the finish line, for instance, you can stop one hand, and then stop the other as the next competitor completes the race. Instantaneously determine and display the time difference.
In the world of horology, some watches stand out from the competition and become iconic. The Zenith-powered Daytona 165xx series, a renowned branch of the Daytona family that marks a significant advancement in the model’s history, was the product of an unexpected partnership between Rolex and Zenith.
Its growth into a “brand within a brand” is in part responsible for its commercial success. Devoted Daytona collectors frequently distinguish themselves from the larger Rolex enthusiast community. Paul Newman’s personal Rolex Daytona was sold for a record-breaking $17 million to an unidentified buyer, serving as an absurd illustration of this phenomena.
But particular timepiece belonged to the initial batch of Daytonas. The Zenith-powered second generation quickly entirely transformed the brand by bringing numerous important upgrades in addition to its movement. The Rolex Zenith Daytona is the perfect example of a racing icon due to its rarity, short production run, and iconic features.
ABOUT THE ROLEX ZENITH DAYTONA
An important turning point in the history of the Daytona series can be seen with this specific model. For the first time, an automatic movement was used in place of the original hand-winding Rolex Daytona model. The renowned Zenith El-Primero movement was also present in this movement.
Although this calibre wasn’t created by Rolex, it had significant alterations that set it apart from the original design. Throughout the limited production run of the Zenith Daytona, a stainless steel, an 18k yellow gold, and a hybrid of the two were also offered.
HISTORY OF THE ROLEX ZENITH DAYTONA
In honour of the well-known Florida racecourse Daytona Beach, Rolex debuted its Daytona line in 1963. It soon won praise for its accuracy and dependability in timing in motorsports.
Prior to the brand’s release of the first automatic Daytona in 1988, the initial generation of Rolex’s racing line had a hand-winding mechanical movement when it was made. It was driven by a Zenith El-Primero movement that had been altered.
Rolex made significant changes to the original high-beat El Primero by lowering its frequency from 36,000 to a more conventional 28,800 vibrations per hour. The Rolex Calibre 4030 was created as a result of this collaboration and some other adjustments.
The produced watch has ignited a fresh wave of interest in and acclaim for the Daytona collection. Up until the year 2000, Zenith movements were solely available; after that, Rolex introduced its own 4130 calibre. Thereafter, the calibre 4130 was the only one offered in new Daytona variants.
THE ROLEX ZENITH DAYTONA CALIBER 4030
The high-beat frequency, date function, and integrated automatic chronograph design of the Zenith “El Primero” movement made it famous. Then Rolex arrived and, after making a number of modifications, decided to employ this movement for the Daytona:
BEAT RATE
As previously noted, Rolex decreased the frequency from 36,000 to 28,800 vibrations per hour. As a result, they were able to extend the movement’s life and reliability.
DATE FUNCTION REMOVAL
Initially, the Zenith El Primero movement had a date feature. To keep the Daytona’s design simple and concentrated on the chronograph function, Rolex omitted this functionality.
CHRONOGRAPH MODIFICATION
The clockwork was fully overhauled by Rolex. With these modifications, they hoped to improve the watch’s robustness while streamlining the user experience.
For the chronograph function, the original El Primero featured a lateral clutch engagement method (visualise two gears arranged side by side on a table. Pushing one gear into the other and meshing their teeth together activates the chronograph. The chronograph mechanism is now in motion.
As opposed to this, Rolex changed it to a vertical clutch arrangement. To engage the chronograph, you would press down the top gear onto the bottom one by stacking the two gears one on top of the other. Generally speaking, this method enables a smoother start without the hop found with lateral clutches.
This modification increased the chronograph’s accuracy while reducing wear on the mechanism when it was activated for prolonged periods of time.
BALANCE AND HAIRSPRING
Rolex replaced the Zenith’s balance wheel and hairspring with its own, which has Microstella regulating nuts (adjustable weights on the balance wheel that Rolex uses to fine-tune the accuracy of the watch) and a Breguet overcoil (a specific hairspring design that helps the balance wheel swing more consistently). This made it possible to regulate things more precisely and made them more resilient to temperature changes and shocks.
ESCAPEMENT
The escapement in a watch transfers power to the balance wheel, which is responsible for keeping the clock correct. It serves as the watch’s brain. The escape wheel, a toothed wheel propelled by the watch’s mainspring, and the pallet fork, a lever with two jewelled ‘pallets’ that engage the escape wheel’s teeth, are its two main parts.
‘Swiss lever’ escapement was utilised in the original Zenith El Primero movement. When Rolex adopted the El Primero movement for the Daytona, they chose to replace this with their own internal creation, known as the “Chronergy” escapement. The Chronergy escapement is a better version of the Swiss lever escapement with changes made to the pallet fork and escape wheel that boost performance and save energy usage.
FINISHING AND DECORATION
Rolex used their distinctive aesthetic requirements, including as engraving, polishing, and gold plating, before putting the Zenith El Primero movements into production to be used in their Daytona watches.
The high-beat El Primero was changed into the Calibre 4030, a movement that met Rolex’s requirements at the time. Before putting it on the assembly line, they were able to increase the movement’s accuracy, dependability, and durability. These important adjustments contributed to the Daytona’s status being raised.
CALIBER 4030 VS CALIBER 4130: WHAT CHANGES DID ROLEX MAKE FOR ITS IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT?
The Calibre 4130, which took the place of the Zenith-based Calibre 4030, is the first movement wholly created and produced in-house by Rolex. It has a longer 72-hour power reserve. For the chronograph feature, it likewise uses a vertical clutch mechanism similar to that of its predecessor.
The “Parachrom Bleu” hairspring, which was far more shock-resistant and was unaffected by magnetic fields, was originally used in the 4130, the first Rolex calibre.
ROLEX ZENITH DAYTONA WATCH MODELS
ROLEX ZENITH DAYTONA 16520
The stainless steel Zenith Daytona is the 16520. Compared to the other two variants, its substance gives it a sportier appearance. It had a choice of a black or white dial when it first introduced. The “Daytona Paul Newman” dial and a silver dial later became options. This particular watch has a stainless steel bezel with an engraved tachymeter scale.
ROLEX ZENITH DAYTONA 16523
The Zenith Daytona in stainless steel and yellow gold is known as the 16520. The core links of the bracelet are made of gold, and both the case and bracelet are two-toned. The dial options were identical to those of the 16520 stainless steel variant. This particular watch has an 18k yellow gold bezel with an identically carved tachymeter scale.
ROLEX ZENITH DAYTONA 16528
The Zenith Daytona in 18k yellow gold is the 16520. It seems opulent and prestigious due to the material. The dial options were identical to those of the other two versions. This particular watch also has an 18k yellow gold bezel.
WHAT’S DIFFERENT ABOUT THE ROLEX ZENITH DAYTONA DIAL?
There are three subsidiary dials on the Calibre 4030 and Calibre 4130 Daytona models. These dials are positioned similarly, but at the 3, 6, and 9-hour marks, they line up differently.
The 12-hour counter is located at 9 o’clock on the Calibre 4130 versions, while the running seconds dial is at 6 o’clock. The 12-hour counter is located at 6 o’clock and the running seconds dial is located at 9 o’clock on Zenith Daytona versions.
The 30-minute counter on each watch is located at 6 o’clock. On the Zenith-powered model, these auxiliary dials are located closer to one another and lean more towards the centre than they do on later variants.
Additionally, the luminated markers on the Zenith Daytona are thinner, which makes it more difficult to read in dim light. Last but not least, the subdial rings of the ref. 16520 stainless-steel Daytona on both the black and white dial versions are a different colour.
HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO GET YOUR HANDS ON A ROLEX ZENITH DAYTONA?
Collector interest in this watch type has grown significantly over time and has established a sizable fanbase. In general, the Daytona is frequently referred to as a brand inside a brand, having its own devoted following of collectors.
The Zenith-powered Daytona is no exception, and its value has increased dramatically over time, particularly whenever new Rolex Daytona iterations are launched. As Rolex’s first self-winding chronograph, it represented a tremendous advancement in the company’s technical capabilities.
Additionally, this watch model has a bad reputation for being difficult to find through licenced retailers. As a result, getting one has traditionally been considered a “dark art.”
The Zenith-powered Daytona also boasts a number of notable variances in the dial and bezel, which appeals to collectors even more. People who devote their entire life to collecting the most legendary timepieces will always appreciate special features on a watch, like the various Zenith Daytona models from MK1 to MK5.
To sum up, finding a Zenith-powered Rolex Daytona is quite challenging. Your competition will include both wealthy investors and Rolex lovers as its market value continues to rise over time.
CONCLUSION
The Zenith Daytonas are no longer manufactured, yet their impact on the watch industry is still felt today. Their influence goes beyond the mechanical watch sector. Within the Rolex brand, these watches were able to create a global community of racing watch aficionados. Investors and fans of motorsport will continue to compete for one as the watch’s value is expected to increase in the future.
Few, if any, watches that have been produced in the past few years have attracted the same level of passionate and ongoing interest from the enthusiast community as the Tissot PRX line. Since its initial introduction in 2021, the brand has expanded the collection into a wide range of sizes, complications, colorways, and movement options, winning over fans from all corners of the watch world with this affordably priced, solidly appointed, and respectably historically accurate take on the hottest integrated bracelet sports watch segment.
The 40mm-wide automatic PRX wears too large for some preferences, but the quartz-powered 35mm version of the design loses the mechanical movement and the eye-catching waffle dial texture of its larger sibling. As a result, the PRX hasn’t yet found a “Goldilocks zone” for many fans. But Tissot wants to give these fanatics what they want for the summer of 2023. The new Tissot PRX 35mm Automatic collection, which combines the mechanical movement and aesthetic refinements of the automatic PRX with the fashionably tiny dimensions of the 35mm quartz line, is a watch that is almost certain to win over the public.
The stainless steel case of the Tissot PRX 35mm Automatic offers few surprises to those who are familiar with the PRX series. Here, the familiar flat-brushed surfaces and polished chamfers are still there together with the same sharp, integrated design that characterises the 35mm-wide quartz model. Additionally, the finishing is consistent with the rest of the series in terms of the images, including intricate, strong brushing and consistent clear polishing. The caseback of the PRX has seen the first significant change from earlier 35mm versions, with Tissot including a mineral glass display window to match the bigger 40mm automatic variant. But the PRX 35mm Automatic delivers a sporty 100 metres of water resistance, just like the rest of the range.
Tissot divides the difference between the 40mm automatic model and earlier 35mm iterations for the dials of the PRX 35mm Automatic line. The dial surfaces themselves depart from the basic sunburst finishing of quartz PRX variants in favour of the characteristic ‘waffle dial’ pattern present on prior automatic PRX models, despite the tighter, less atmospheric proportions of the 35mm quartz line being carried over.
The PRX’s dial is stamped rather than etched, so it may not be as high-quality as comparable finishes from Audemars Piguet, but it’s a colourful accent to the images that helps to give the series a distinctive look. The new PRX 35mm Automatic is available from Tissot in four different hues. The recognisable black dial, rich oceanic blue, and vivid forest green all make a presence in this new smaller presentation. Three of these are enthusiast favourites from the bigger 40mm line.
However, the fourth edition introduces a fresh idea to the line. With the addition of white mother of pearl’s iridescence and the complexity of the waffle dial surface, this new design should produce an enticingly complex appearance on the wrist. These new models adhere to the well-known PRX dial pattern outside of the dial surfaces, with striped baton hands, thin applied indices, and a framed date window at 3 o’clock.
The Powermatic 80 automatic movement developed by ETA especially for Tissot and its Swatch Group sister brands is used in the Tissot PRX 35mm Automatic, as it was in earlier automatic versions of the series. The Powermatic 80 continues to be one of the best performers in this price range and a strong point of the PRX series as a whole thanks to its substantial 80-hour power reserve at a 21,600 bph beat rate and high-tech Nivachron balance spring.
The Powermatic 80’s finishing is primarily straightforward and professional, with a combination of brushing and matte blasting for the bridges. However, a rotor with a sunburst texture and engravings adds a little personality to the design when viewed in pictures. The iconic stainless steel integrated bracelet of the PRX line is back for the PRX 35mm Automatic as well. The link edges have been sharply polished to contrast with the sweeping brushed surfaces.
Over the past few years, the Tissot PRX line has developed into one of the most well-known nameplates in the watch industry. The new Tissot PRX 35mm Automatic collection, which offers a combination of features enthusiasts have been clamouring for with the same design, quality, and value that has won fans all over the world, has the potential to increase this wide appeal even further.
The name Breitling needs no introduction. They have been making precise watches that are equally fashionable, renowned, and useful for more than a century. However, they are also responsible for some of horology’s most recognisable chronograph watches.
Every lifestyle and wrist size may be accommodated by a Breitling Chronograph, from pilots to divers, racers to adventurers. For a thorough and impressive list of the top Breitling chronographs, the Timezone365 team hand-picked the best in the business.
We’ll look into the past, the present, and everything in between. So, unwind, sit back, and get ready for one or more models to blow your mind.
ABOUT BREITLING CHRONOGRAPH WATCHES
We’ll examine Breitling’s extensive history of creating pilot-specific chronographs in the following section. Breitling has a long history of creating top-notch, cutting-edge pilot’s chronograph watches. And through time, they have come to be associated with aviation. In addition to collaborations with well-known pilots, they created the first wrist-worn chronograph in 1915.
However, Breitling Chronograph watches are more than just clocks with an aviation theme. Their SuperOcean series of watches gives them a significant position in the diving community as well. The company also offers a limited-edition timepiece for travellers and bikers. The sophisticated Premier and Navitimer collections also preserve extraordinary historical occurrences.
The attention to detail in Breitling Chronograph watches is another feature that sets them distinct. Each watch is painstakingly made from the finest components, including sapphire and plexiglass crystals as well as stainless steel and titanium casings. Furthermore, you can be sure that your Breitling Chronograph watch will maintain accurate time because to the company’s dedication to accuracy. It is understandable why these watches are favoured by watch aficionados around.
HISTORY OF BREITLING CHRONOGRAPH WATCHES
The first Chronograph watches were made by Breitling in 1884 when a young man by the name of Leon Breitling made the decision to establish a watchmaking business in the Swiss town of Saint-Imier. Leon was a driven and skilled watchmaker who soon established a name for himself. However, the first Breitling Chronograph was not created until 1915.
The Breitling Chronograph, the first chronograph watch designed by Gaston Breitling to remove the chronograph pusher from the crown, was a game-changer. Back then, this was a huge concern, particularly for pilots who had to time their flights. But Breitling really began to take off in the 1930s.
Breitling began producing timepieces with a built-in slide rule exclusively for pilots in the 1930s. It was like wearing a wrist-mounted computer. And it wasn’t just pilots who adored these watches; Breitling’s cutting-edge timepieces also won over astronauts and military personnel.
The Quartz dilemma and Wily Breitling’s declining health contributed to the 1970s brand crisis. But later, in the 1980s, Ernest Schneider, a new owner, bought the business and gave the brand new life. Breitling has grown steadily stronger since that time.
Numerous renowned Chronograph watches, such as the Navitimer, Chronomat, and Superocean, have been produced by them. Watch collectors all across the world adore and seek out these watches because they have become classics.
One of Breitling’s oldest and most well-known collections is the Navitimer. The 806 reference, created by Willy Breitling in 1952 for members of the US Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), was the collection’s first recognisable timepiece.
Instead of following the AOPA’s request to create a chronograph watch, Wily chose to be creative and created a watch that could do out computational aviation tasks. And so many other Navitimer watches, especially the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46, have been inspired by this design.
One of the most recent variations of the 806 reference is the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46, which is a gorgeous pilot watch. It fits well among other fashionable and modern luxury timepieces thanks to its blue dial and sleek profile, which give it the appearance and feel of sporty dress watches.
The bidirectional bezel and 46mm stainless steel case have lovely and tidy polished and brushed finishes. Three white subdials that give a splash of colour and include chronograph capabilities are placed on the blue dial. A 12-hour chronograph with a date display, a 30-minute chronograph, and a 1/4-second chronograph are among the subdials.
BREITLING CHRONOMAT B01 42 (REF. AB0134101L1A1)
Ernest Schneider first created the Breitling Chronograph Automatic (Chronomat) watch for the Freece Tricolour Jet team in 1983. It is a sophisticated chronograph in the aviation style that was created with exacting engineering for Italian pilots. It’s understandable why the watch appears to be fairly elegant and sleek.
The stainless steel casing of the Chronomat B01 42 is 42mm in diameter and 15.1mm thick. On both sides of the watch, glare-proof cambered sapphire crystal is included. This watch, which differs from the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46 in having a screw-down crown and 200-meter water resistant, is appropriate for swimming.
The three grey subdials and the British Racing Green dial both have a sunburst finish. Thus, the dial and subdials of the watch can display dark green or black colours depending on how it is tilted. In addition to having luminous hands, markings, and a tachymeter scale for calculations, the green dial is transparent and features an easy-to-read style.
The unidirectional bezel of the Breitling Chronomat reference AB0134101L1A1 includes four rider tabs, as is customary. Originally, the purpose of these rider tabs was to stop the watch from breaking easily in the case of an accidently bumping into the aeroplane canopy’s metal frame.
But nowadays, pilots and divers can use these tabs to count up or down while they are flying or diving. The tabs make it easier to hold onto the bezel when there are no notches.
The Breitling Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 44 (ref. AB0162121G1S1) incorporates contemporary technologies while maintaining the original Superocean design from the 1950s. It is a dive watch with a case size of 44mm in diameter and a thickness of 15.51mm, and it is water resistant to 200 metres.
Despite being constructed of rubber, the Ocean Classic strap resembles the mesh bracelet in terms of side profile, pattern, and quality. Be aware that the case dimensions and strap length are intended for large wrists, preferably those that are 16 cm or broader. The only thing the side perforations on the strap allow you to do is cut it to length without necessarily changing the size.
The unidirectional ratcheted bezel and triangular-shaped hands are this Superocean Heritage watch’s signature features. The ref. AB0162121G1S1 has a captive bezel, as opposed to typical snapped-on bezels, which is fastened down to prevent it from falling off the casing at will.
Lumi-treated hour markers and the bezel pearl make them visible underwater. Three chronographs—a 1/4th of a second, 30-minute, and 12-hour counter—powered by Breitling’s in-house Calibre B01 automatic movement are located in the centre of the uncluttered silver-toned dial.
When Luke Skywalker destroyed one of the Death Stars during the Battle of Yavin, this watch ought to have been on his wrist. The watch certainly appears to be ready to exact revenge on its owner. It was created to keep up with fast-paced lifestyles and flight adventures.
The casing has a massive profile that makes it appear extremely thick and like titanium. Well, it is thicker than other timepieces with a 16.46mm thickness. The casing only has a 45mm diameter and is made of stainless steel. The casing, despite its construction, is strong enough to withstand even the most extreme activities, such as jumping out of an aircraft or fending off a bear (well, maybe not the bear part).
The Avenger Chronograph GMT 45 (ref. A24315101B1X1), like the majority of Breitling chronograph watches, has three subdials with a little deviation from the traditional locations. The GMT feature, however, is what most distinguishes this watch.
Tracking several time zones on your watch using the 12-hour and military-standard 24-hour time zones will make it simple for you to maintain your jet-setting lifestyle. The Breitling 24 Calibre self-winding mechanical movement gives it a 42-hour power reserve and a 300-meter water resistance.
BREITLING AVI REF. 765 1953 RE-EDITION (REF. AB0920131B1X1)
This timepiece transports you to the height of aviation. This vintage clock was designed as a tribute to the 1953 Breitling AVI Ref. 765, which was the first timepiece made specifically for pilots. It keeps some of the characteristics of the original watch, including the black face and luminous Arabic numerals with a vintage feel.
With gold-toned hour markers and three chronographs—quarter-second, 15-minute, and 12-hour chronograph timers—the watch’s black dial maintains its original appearance. The stainless steel case has a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 14.05mm. The Breitling AVI Re-Edition (ref. AB0920131B1X1), however, differs from the original model in that its caseback is Plexiglas crystal.
A very basic and distinctive bidirectional bezel is included on the stainless steel case. The bezel, like the old classic, has 12-hour makers in readable Arabic numerals rather than various numbers with numerous tiny markings. The Breitling AVI Re-Edition (ref. AB0920131B1X1) has a 30 bars resistance, which is an improvement, and is one of its distinguishing features.
The black dial is likewise devoid of the “GENEVE” engraving. Additionally, the AVI Re-Edition (ref. AB0920131B1X1) is driven by the B09 Calibre, an internal movement created especially for the brand’s historical re-editions, as opposed to the Breitling AVI Ref. 765, which uses the Valjoux-178 movement.
BREITLING ENDURANCE PRO (REF. X82310E51B1S1)
The Endurance Pro (ref. X82310E51B1S1) is an all-Breitling timepiece, which means that every component is made by the company. For instance, the case is composed of Breitlight, which is 3.3 times lighter than titanium and 5.8 times lighter than stainless steel.
Therefore, while having a diameter of 44mm and a thickness of 12.5mm, the watch doesn’t feel heavy on your wrist. The watch head is far lighter than most at only 35.5g. It appears that Breitling wanted to create a material that was both strong and lightweight, making it ideal for endurance sports.
Not only is this material lightweight, but it is also strong and “tool-like.” It is non-magnetic, thermally stable, and resistant to corrosion and scratches. Additionally, it is hypoallergenic, so even when submerged in water, the colour won’t fade. The case has a water resistance of up to 10 bars, speaking of water. Additionally, it features the recognisable rubber strap and double tang-style buckle from Breitling.
Another internal Breitling 82 Calibre thermo-compensated SuperQuartz movement, with greater precision and accuracy than a typical quartz movement, powers the Endurance Pro. Three chronograph sub-dials, a pulsometer, and a bidirectional bezel with a compass scale are additional useful elements.
BREITLING TOP TIME DEUS (REF. A233112A1A1X1)
Here’s something unique: a chronograph watch designed for skateboarders, travellers, and bikers. It doesn’t fit the badass biker cliché, contrary to what you might think, but it will undoubtedly offer you a sense of that adventure.
This limited edition watch is the result of a partnership between Breitling and the bespoke motorcycle clothing company Deus Ex Machina, and it is inspired by Breitling’s Top Time watches from the 1960s. It has a rather eye-catching lacquered dial with accents in red, yellow, and orange as well as a 41mm stainless steel case with a 14.27mm thickness.
To prevent the watch from breaking easily, the dial has a glare-proof convex sapphire crystal covering. The watch doesn’t have a bezel, but it does include a tachymeter scale around the outside of the dial that lets you gauge your speed as you zoom down the motorway.
At 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively, are two squircle-shaped chronograph counters. Breitling’s 23 Calibre self-winding mechanical movement, with a 48-hour power reserve and up to 3 bars of water resistance, powers the Top Time Deus (ref. A233112A1A1X1).
A tribute to the original 1959 Navitimer is the Breitling Navitimer 1959 Edition (ref. LB0910211C1P1). With a few contemporary concessions, it is a luxurious limited edition calculating chronograph that keeps all of the functions of the original Navitimer ref. 806.
A slide rule bezel, a 41mm platinum case, a domed plexiglas crystal, a blue tone-on-tone dial, an alligator leather band, a 70-hour power reserve, and a water resistance of up to 3 bars are all features of this Navitimer. It also has two totalizers and one chronograph. As a tribute to the classic Breitling design from the 1950s, it also features a “B” logo with wings.
BREITLING SUPER CHRONOMAT 44 FOUR-YEAR CALENDAR (REF. U19320161C1U1)
The name of this Super Chronomat model should include an additional Super. It keeps the same characteristics as other Super Chronomats, including a 44mm stainless steel and 18k red gold case and a blue ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel with rider tabs and minute markings on the upper half of the bezel.
The chronograph bezel, crown, and pushers all have ceramic inlays as well. The tachymeter scale and sub-dials are still present. The sub-dials, however, are marginally different from those of the Super Chronomat B01 44 (ref. UB0136251B1S1). There are four sub-dials instead of three on the Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar (ref. U19320161C1U1).
The 1/4-second chronograph, which is located at twelve, also serves as the date indication. The sub-dial functions as a 30-minute totalizer and month indicator at the 9 o’clock position, and a 12-hour totalizer and day indicator at the 6 o’clock position. At 3 o’clock, a moon phase sub-dial bearing the “B” logo and the words “Breitling 1884” is also present.
You only need to worry about changing the date every 1461 days, or once, or once per leap year, thanks to the watch’s four-year calendar feature. The Breitling (ref. U19320161C1U1) model is driven by the B19 Calibre, a functioning self-winding mechanical movement with a shorter power reserve (42 hours), in contrast to the Super Chronomat that was previously evaluated.
BREITLING EXOSPACE B55 (REF. EB5510H11B1E1)
Breitling’s outstanding and successful attempt to develop a smartwatch with a chronograph was this watch. It is a clock designed for today’s astronauts, pilots, and other wearers. Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) connectivity is built into the 2015 Breitling Exospace B55 (ref. EB5510H11B1E1). In order to give alerts, seven daily alarms, and a GMT feature, it can be synchronised with your smartphone via an app.
The flight-specific features, like a countdown and countup timer for timing engine startup sequences and the watch’s capacity to record aircraft takeoff and landing times, will captivate aviators. There are two tiny, highly readable 12/24 hour LCD panels in the centre of the dial. The LCDs display the adjustments you’ve made to your smartphone, and you may activate them by pressing the crown or tilting your wrist.
The watch has a USB, a cord, and a long-lasting rechargeable battery. It is powered by the B55 Calibre SuperQuartz thermocompensated quartz electronic movement. The watch can go fifteen days between charges, which is an outstanding battery life.
This watch nevertheless has the soul of a traditional timepiece. Thus, the watch’s 44mm titanium case includes pushers, a crown, a unidirectional bezel with rider tabs, and traditional analogue Arabic numerals. There is a good balance of traditional and modern smartwatch functions.
CONCLUSION
The pinnacle of craftsmanship, precision, accuracy, and classic design are Breitling Chronograph watches. Each watch delivers a distinct sense of fashion and an emotion influenced by history.
You can’t go wrong with any of the 10 Breitling Chronograph watches we’ve covered if you’re in the market for one. You don’t need all 10 of the best Breitling Chronograph watches, let’s face it. Unless you’re a millionaire playboy with a taste for expensive watches, of course. Then go ahead and reward yourself with a sample of each.
One or two Breitling Chronograph watches will be sufficient for the rest of us mortals. Therefore, choose a watch that speaks to you and wear it with confidence and style. After all, you’re saying something more than merely telling the time.
Few watches in the Rolex lineup better capture the spirit of exploration than the Explorers. These recognisable wristwatches have a history rich in adventure and invention, and they have grown to be true emblems of tenacity and accuracy.
The Rolex Explorers have changed and adapted since their beginnings as tool watches, capturing the spirit of exploration.
Join us on a riveting journey as we explore the intriguing history, contrast the illustrious Explorer I and Explorer II, and uncover the most noteworthy items of this extraordinary collection – the 10 greatest models that have permanently changed the face of timekeeping.
As we reveal the fascinating narratives of these clocks beyond the bounds of standard wristwear, get ready to fuel your passion for horological study.
ABOUT THE ROLEX EXPLORER
A renowned line of professional sports timepieces known as the Rolex Explorer was originally presented in 1953. The Explorer immediately became a favourite among explorers and outdoor enthusiasts since it was created with their needs in mind.
The Explorer has established itself as a go-to option for people looking for a dependable timepiece because to its straightforward yet appealing appearance, sturdy construction, and precise timekeeping. The Rolex Explorer is a favourite among collectors and aficionados since it is one of the more reasonably priced alternatives in the Rolex lineup despite its superb quality.
HISTORY OF THE ROLEX EXPLORER
In 1952, while Mount Everest was still unconquered, the Rolex Explorer’s tale first began. The renowned watchmaker Rolex wanted its clocks to travel with climbers as they made their way to the summit.
The British climbers received large-size Oyster watches from Rolex in the same year, which later served as prototypes for the Explorer versions. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1953 cemented the Explorer’s reputation for exploration and toughness under pressure.
The Rolex Explorer has accomplished important milestones during its lifetime. The Explorer’s reputation as a watch of choice for adventurers and celebrities alike has been further cemented by the wearing of it by illustrious figures and characters like James Bond, Neil Armstrong, and Buzz Aldrin.
As a result of its rich history and enduring appeal, the Rolex Explorer has grown in favour among investors and collectors.
ROLEX EXPLORER I VS EXPLORER II
There are two main model families in the Explorer collection: the Explorer I and the Explorer II. Both models bear the name Explorer, but they differ in several significant ways that make them distinct.
The Rolex Explorer I is distinguished by its timelessly elegant design. It has a simple dial with trademark “369” Arabic numerals and hands that are bright and provide outstanding visibility. The Explorer I is best known for its customary 36mm stainless steel case, while it has also been made in 40mm and 39mm sizes.
The Rolex Explorer II, on the other hand, designates a more robust approach. The Explorer II, which debuted in 1971, was created especially for speleologists and cave explorers.
It has a bigger 42mm casing, dots and dashes for hour markers, and an extra 24-hour hand that makes it possible to track two time zones at once. The most recent version of the Explorer II, the 226570, offers cutting-edge features and improvements while maintaining its historical integrity.
ROLEX EXPLORER MODELS
There have been at least 19 models (the list is not exhaustive) of the Rolex Explorer since 1953, 4 of which are currently still on the production lines of the Genevan factory.
Model
Production Years
Explorer 6150
1953 (Pre-explorer)
Explorer 6350
1953-1955
Explorer 5518/0
1962-1964
Explorer 6610
1955-1959
Explorer 1016/0
1960-1990
Explorer 5500
1958-1967
Explorer 1016 Space-Dweller
Uncertain
Explorer 6429 (Known as “Commando”, very rare)
Uncertain
Explorer II 1655/0
1971-1983
Explorer II 16550
1983-1990
Explorer 14270
1991-2001
Explorer 114270
2002-2010
Explorer II 16570
1989-2011
Explorer II 216570
2011-2021
Explorer 214270
2010-2021
Explorer II 226570
2021-
Explorer 124270
2021-
Explorer 124273
2021-
Explorer 224270
2023-
PRICES AND VALUES
Prices for Explorer I and II models in the current production range between $8,700 and $13,300.
Explorer II 226570, 42mm, stainless steel: $10,900
Explorer I 124270, 36mm, stainless steel: $8,150
Explorer I 124273 36mm, stainless steel & yellow gold: $13,300
Explorer I 224270, 40mm, stainless steel: $8,700
The first two versions sell for more than their retail value on the secondary market. In general, pre-owned Rolex Explorer models typically range in price from $4,700 to $18,600 (for a Rolex Explorer 1016).
The 214270 reference, a 39mm model whose first version (Mark 1) arrived with notoriously short hands since they hadn’t been moved up from the previous 36mm version, is one of the most well-known pre-owned Explorers.
AN UNDERSTATED LEGACY
The Explorer’s importance as a dependable tool watch cannot be overstated, even though it might not attract as much attention or fetch as much money at auction as some other Rolex models. The Explorer has developed a reputation for its adaptable elegance thanks to its historical debuts, association with James Bond, and endorsements from notable people like Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin.
THE BEST ROLEX EXPLORER MODELS
1. ROLEX EXPLORER 40 (REF. 224270)
Lovers of assertively big sport watches are jubilant over the newest Rolex Explorer, a faithful upgrade with a larger 40mm casing. Even more of a shift is that the Explorer is now offered in two sizes (36mm and 40mm).
The name “Explorer” is prominently displayed on the dial of the new Explorer, which has undergone a careful overhaul, harmonising with the design decision of its smaller 36mm predecessor. This change from the prior generation, in which the name was positioned at 6 o’clock on the 39mm version, brings harmony to the design.
It is still driven by Rolex’s dependable 3230 self-winding movement, which has a 70-hour power reserve. It is equipped with an Oyster band made of stainless steel. It has the clean, uncomplicated appearance I enjoy in an everyday clock thanks to a combination of brushed and polished surfaces.
The latest addition to the Explorer family, the Rolex Explorer 40, represents all that has been improved and perfected over many years.
2. ROLEX EXPLORER II WHITE DIAL (REF. 226570-0001)
Examining the 2021 Explorer II now. This 42mm sport watch is even better than the previous generation thanks to a few new features.
The new 3285 movement that beats at the centre of this timepiece is undoubtedly the main attraction. Even when you decide to take a rest, this watch continues to run thanks to its remarkable 70-hour power reserve.
You may rest assured that it will stay in sync till you pick it up again on Monday if you leave it on your dresser over the weekend. The clasp and bracelet have both been updated. The bracelet has been upgraded with a new, more secure clasp and is now wider and more comfortable to wear.
Finally, new-generation Chromalight luminous material is now used for the hour markers and hands. It is simpler to read the time in low light thanks to this material’s brighter and longer-lasting glow than earlier luminescent compounds. The 2021 Explorer II is one of the best-designed Explorer models to date as a result of these advancements.
3. ROLEX EXPLORER 36 (REF. 124270)
Watch aficionados were immediately drawn to the Explorer 36 when it made its eagerly awaited debut in 2022, and it’s simple to understand why!
The return to a 36mm case size, which delighted many committed Explorer II fans, is one of this release’s most noticeable features. The smaller case increases wearer comfort and makes the watch more appealing to people with small wrists.
As an extra plus, the watch’s smaller size enables a seamless shift from an outdoor companion to a sophisticated dress watch, providing adaptability for any situation.
But advancements go further than that. The new 3230 movement is a substantial improvement over the previous model. This movement promises higher precision in addition to a longer battery reserve of up to 70 hours. The 124270 is one of the most intriguing Explorer watches available due to its size and adaptability.
4. ROLEX EXPLORER II BLACK DIAL (REF. 226570)
This black variant, which was released in 2021 along with the “Polar” white dial version, has a dial that is noticeably different.
On the Rolex Explorer II’s black dial The hour, minute, and 24-hour hands on a black dial change subtly but significantly. These new hands, which are made of priceless white gold, enhance the watch’s aesthetic appeal.
This meticulous modification creates a smooth and eye-catching ensemble by harmonising the alignment of the hands with the dial’s markings. White gold was purposefully chosen as the material for the hands, not just as an aesthetic improvement.
The white gold hands’ striking colours contrast sharply with the black dial, producing a beautiful play of light and shadow. This just strengthens the 226570’s distinguished heritage among the Explorer crew.
5. ROLEX EXPLORER 36 TWO-TONE (REF. 124273)
The Rolex Explorer 36 Two-Tone, which combines stainless steel and yellow gold, is a striking reinterpretation of the classic Explorer 36 timepiece.
It stands out from the competition because to its bold design decision, which exudes confidence and style. The clock gains a hint of luxury from the contrasting materials, which also enhances its visual appeal and transforms it into a true statement piece.
The black dial, which serves as the watch’s focal point, embodies both simplicity and elegance. Its elegant style provides a compelling backdrop for the Chromalight material, enabling maximum visibility in even the dimmest lighting conditions.
The Two-Tone is an Explorer model that distinguishes out because it combines a more daring yet refined appearance with all the credentials of a tried-and-true design.
6. ROLEX EXPLORER 1016
A classic Rolex watch that perfectly captures the spirit of a tool watch is the Explorer 1016. It stands out thanks to distinctive elements like the recognisable “369” font. But what sets it apart are its two records: it is the last 4-digit reference in the Rolex catalogue, having been created for the last time in 1989, and it is the longest-running 4-digit reference, having ruled for a remarkable 30 years.
Since its introduction in 1953, the Explorer 1016’s design has endured, showing a tough elegance that never goes out of style. The Explorer 1016 has grown in popularity recently and is now a very sought-after option for collectors.
And its scarcity only increased its allure. Depending on the Explorer 1016’s condition and manufacturing year, prices can range from about $12,000 to $45,000. The Rolex Explorer 1016 is a classic watch, but it is nonetheless interesting and relevant today. One of the most prominent Explorer models, it has great aesthetic appeal and historical significance.
7. ROLEX EXPLORER 1655
Initially disregarded, this antique treasure is now in demand from collectors all over the world. Let’s explore its fascinating heritage, distinctive design, rarity, and enduring allure.
The Explorer II 1655, created as a tool watch for risk-taking expeditions and adventures, personifies Rolex’s uncompromising dedication to accuracy and toughness. It differs from other Rolex clocks with its unusual 24-hour dial, large orange hand (called a “freccione” in Italian), and sturdy non-rotating bezel.
The strong case and plexiglass crystal, as well as the 1970s-inspired design, convey a charm that will appeal to fans of the era. The Explorer II 1655 competes favourably with contemporary timepieces despite having a vintage appeal.
The watch’s 24h dial may need a keen eye, but once mastered, it adds to its unique personality. This Explorer model stands out because to its less typical 1970s aesthetic and unique design cues.
8. ROLEX EXPLORER 14270
Collectors have a special place in their hearts for the Rolex Explorer 14270, especially the “Blackout” model. As an upgrade to the iconic ref. 1016, it was introduced in 1990 and included a gloss dial, sapphire crystal, and characteristic black enamel-filled Arabic numerals.
The “Blackout” Explorer is readily recognisable thanks to these distinctive dial features and is in high demand among collectors. In fact, these vintage Rolexes are among the most coveted sapphire crystal watches.
The Explorer 14270’s improved features and traditional 36mm case size strike a mix between retro and contemporary looks. It is adaptable and appealing due to its cosy atmosphere and modest presence.
The Explorer ref. 14270 has a lengthy history and classic elegance despite being underappreciated. It has become more collectible as it symbolises the “youngtimer” notion in the watch industry. The 14270 occupies a special place in the Explorer constellation due to its unique aesthetical characteristics and extreme scarcity.
9. ROLEX EXPLORER II 16570
The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 is regarded as one of the most recognisable youth timer watches in history. It offers a fusion of sleek design, cutting-edge features, and budget-friendly costs, and it symbolises the period of transition between vintage and contemporary models.
The Rolex 16570, which falls somewhere between historical and contemporary styles, has a stainless steel classic Oyster case that houses the 3185 calibre. Its classic style, which has a fixed 24-hour bezel and a simple dial available in either white or black, perfectly encapsulates the Explorer line.
The watch’s distinctive design features, such the graded and textured bezel and the angled brushing on the lugs, add to its allure. The white “Polar” dial, which gives the watch a hint of nostalgic charm, is one version that is in high demand.
It is a great option for both watch aficionados and collectors due to its affordability when compared to other Rolex models. The watch is one of the most desirable Explorer watches due to its enduring appeal and value.
10. ROLEX EXPLORER 39 (REF. 214270)
A number of significant new features are included in the Rolex Explorer 39 214270, which increases its desirability. The wider 39mm case diameter, which offers a more balanced display with pronounced Arabic numerals, is one noticeable change.
The Rolex Explorer 39 214270 also keeps a number of significant features from earlier iterations. With a simple black time-only display, baton hour markers, and an inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, the watch maintains its classic style.
The 3132 calibre, a COSC-certified self-winding movement renowned for its dependability and accuracy, continues to power the watch. Despite differing from the customary 36mm diameter of earlier Explorers, the 39mm case size offers a modern twist and a more balanced dial layout.
What Rolex excels at is consistent, progressive improvement and execution mastery, and the Rolex Explorer 39 214270 is a prime example of this.
CONCLUSION
The Rolex Explorer line captures the spirit of exploration and has enthralled watch collectors all around the world. It has a lasting impact due to its rich history and ongoing technical innovation.
These top 10 Explorers are each exceptional in their own right and serve as examples of the brand’s dedication to excellence.
Let their experiences motivate you to take risks and follow your ambitions. Time is yours to master as the adventure goes on. Which of these Explorers would you use to start your horological journey?
When you think about Omega, you think of the Speedmaster; went to the moon. Seamaster; went to the bottom of the ocean. MoonSwatch; went to the Gala Awards evening on the wrist of James Bond.
Unfortunately, the rich history of Omega’s dress watches and their contemporary offers drowns in a sea of sports models (pun intended). However, upon a closer look, you’ll realize that Omega has some of the best dress options you can actually get your hands on.
About Omega Dress Watches
As mentioned, Omega is famous for its sports models; in fact, Jack Forster even mentioned on a “Hey Hodinkee” video that most people forget about their dress options simply because their sports models are such good value.
This is actually a pity seeing as how Omega has some brilliant options for those who prefer a bit of opulence rather than added water resistance. The Constellation line has been a mainstay for years, and the original pie-pan Constellation is on everyone’s list of must-haves. The Globemaster presents itself rather subtly and still remains one of the best luxury-orientated daily watches on the market.
The De-Ville line hardly needs an introduction. With sophisticated style and more variety than you could ever need, this line certainly has the valor to stand up against the other giants in the Omega display case. The Seamaster is one of the best entry-level luxury divers, and the Speedmaster, well, they don’t call it Speedy Tuesday for nothing.
History of Omega Dress Watches
Omega set up shop originally in 1848 under the name La Generale Watch Co., founded by Louis Brandt, and officially switched to Omega SA in 1984. The first wristwatches bearing the Omega name were produced in 1900 and were used by English army officers.
It is not entirely clear what the first Omega dress watch was, seeing as the description of a dress watch has changed throughout the years. Perhaps the first minute-repeater wristwatch released in September 1892 by Louis Brandt & Frère (precursor to Omega) was the first.
The Constellation line is still in production today, and while it has gained sporty elements to keep up with the modern taste, it was anything but sporty upon its release in the early 1950s. Perhaps the De Ville line is what you would describe as their first dress watch, which was released in 1967.
The Best Omega Dress Watches
Omega Constellation Globemaster 39mm White Dial (Ref. 130.30.39.21.02.001)
The Globemaster line is perhaps the most underrated line within the Omega brand. Beneath a sea of Seamasters and Speedmasters, you have, in essence, the perfect everyday watch for those that prefer a bit more luxury than what the Aqua Terra offers.
Sporting a 39mm diameter matched with an interesting fluted bezel constructed of tungsten for added durability without sacrificing the beautiful lines created by the highly polished case. The case sits on a beautifully finished three-link bracelet but can be dressed up with a leather strap as well.
The model line also features various configurations, some with more luxurious undertones like the ones finished with rose or yellow gold or the blue-dialed versions. This particular reference presents itself with the white pie pan dial similar to the 1952 Constellation model.
The movement within highly reliable Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8900 equipped with a 60-hour power reserve and resistance to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss.
2. Omega De Ville Prestige 39mm (Ref. 424.13.40.20.02.006)
Since its launch in 1976, the De Ville line has been a mainstay in the Omega catalog as a ‘dressier’ offshoot of the Seamaster but has since become a standalone series. The classy and elegant design is reflected in the small-by-today’s-standards 39.5mm case and is presented on a ‘hunter green’ leather strap.
Several formal attributes are found on the dial, like the blackened hands, the black Roman numeral hour markers, and the six blackened cabochons. The silvery white dial features a silk-like pattern with an opaline finish and a subtle date aperture at 3 o’clock.
3. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 38mm Black Dial (Ref. 220.13.38.20.01.001)
The contemporary Aqua Terra line is reminiscent of the original 1948 Seamaster and is perhaps the most versatile Omega in the current lineup. The model presented here is no longer in production, but you’ll easily get this timepiece on the second-hand market.
Sticking to the maritime theme, the dial features a black horizontal “teak” pattern similar to what you might find on a yacht. The dial remains extremely legible thanks to rhodium-plated hands and indexes, all filled with Super-LumiNova. A tenuous date function is located at the 6 o’clock position to increase the utility of this luxury-orientated everyday watch.
Within the highly polished case is the Master Chronometer caliber 8800, certified by METAS and equipped with a 55-hour power reserve.
If you’re looking for an interesting spin on the annual calendar complication, perhaps the Constellation Globemaster Annual Calendar might be the watch for you. Presented with a classic size of 41mm and rose gold (or Sedna™ gold) construction mounted on a blue leather strap that matches the blue dial.
The dial is perhaps the most special part of this watch. Between each of the pie pan facets, you’ll find the different months of the year written in cursive gold. The hands and the applied hour markers are also finished in gold.
Flipping the case reveals even more gold presented with the rotor featuring Geneva waves in arabesque. The movement in question is the Master Chronometer caliber 8923, equipped with a 55-hour power reserve.
5. Omega De Ville Prestige Power Reserve 41mm (Ref. 434.53.41.21.10.001)
Matching dark green with gold has become tremendously popular in recent years, and Omega capitalized on this with a De Ville Prestige sporting this exact color scheme. The dark green dial features a stunning sun-brushed finished green dial that contrasts greatly against the golden Roman numerals and cabochon indexes.
Two subregisters are located at the 6 and 9 o’clock positions displaying the power reserve and small seconds, respectively, improving the utility of this dress piece – something to chat about at dinner. The 41mm golden case is a classic design with a highly-polished bezel and lugs.
Flipping the case reveals the sapphire caseback displaying the Master Co-Axial caliber 8810. The Co-Axial feature not only improves accuracy but also extends how long the watch can run before a service is needed.
This particular self-winding movement is approved by METAS and is resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss in case you go wandering around any heavy machinery with your dress piece.
6. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 41mm Brown Dial (Ref. 220.53.41.21.13.001)
If the combination of gold and deep green isn’t what you like, then perhaps a more subtle brown would suit you. This Aqua Terra is decked out with Sedna™ gold (or rose gold) and a deep brown dial that complements each other beautifully.
Like other Aqua Terras, the movement powering this dressy Aqua Terra is the Master Chronometer caliber 8901, certified by METAS and equipped with a 60-hour power reserve. But the movement is not where this timepiece shines but rather shines on the dial.
The sun-brushed brown dial combined with the horizontal “teak” pattern creates a beautiful contrast against the golden hands and applied hour markers. The mahogany theme continues with a brown strap and Sedna™ gold foldover clasp to create an integrated and upper-class look.
The Constellation namesake has been in production since the 50s but has only recently become its own line. While some might not like the contemporary Manhattan design, it is still one of the most opulent options produced by Omega.
This 39mm steel ref. 131.13.39.20.06.002 features typical markers of the Constellation line, the fixed steel bezel with Roman numeral markers, and the “claws” on the side of the case. The sapphire caseback displays the expertly finished Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8800 equipped with a Rhodium plated finish with Geneva waves in arabesque.
Yet again, it’s the dial where this timepiece shines. A horizontally-brushed ruthenium-grey dial is matched with blued numeral indexes, hands, and Omega scripture.
8. Omega De Ville Tresor 40mm Silver Dial (Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)
While the Tresor line was originally reserved for smaller sizes and for women in particular, the modern versions are offered in larger options and even worn by men since all watches are actually unisex.
Unlike many of the options that feature a quartz movement, the reference presented here features a Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8910, a hand-winding movement with expertly finished elements visible through the sapphire caseback.
The case is perfectly sized for a contemporary dress piece, 40mm in diameter and 10.1mm thick. Moving from the highly polished case inwards to the domed opaline silver dial that displays nothing more but the 18K white gold hour indexes and a subtle date aperture at the 6 o’clock position.
9. Omega Seamaster Olympic Official Timekeeper (Ref. 22.53.40.20.04.002)
Omega has a rich history with the Olympics; in fact, Omega has been the official timekeeper of the Olympics for the past 28 Olympiads since 1932. They have also been known to produce limited-edition Olympic-themed watches such as this Olympic Official Timekeeper.
This particular reference is a throwback to the vintage dress pieces produced by the brand in the 20s and sports various vintage-inspired attributes. A no-date eggshell white enamel dial embellished with a pop of color thanks to the red vintage Omega logo located at the 12 o’clock position matched with period-appropriate white gold leaf hands.
The timepiece also sports a 39.5mm case constructed from Canopus Gold™, which is an alloy of 18k white gold with platinum, rhodium, and palladium. This material has been used by Omega since 2015 and is known for both its optic appeal and resistance to scratching.
A taught lug-to-lug measurement of 44.5mm means the watch will fit most wrists perfectly and, with a thickness of merely 12mm, will slide under any dress cuff.
10. Omega Constellation Master Chronometer 36mm White Dial (Ref. 131.10.36.20.02.001)
While many of us would love to wear a vintage Constellation on the wrist, they can be hard to find and maintain. The contemporary version lives up to the namesake by being just as visually appealing while holding true to the standards of Omega’s technological prowess.
The Master Chronometer 36mm comes in many iterations, and this silver-dialed steel version presents itself as a subdued and subtle luxury dress piece. With classic sizing of 36mm in diameter and a 39.2mm lug-to-lug, the watch would not look out of place at a black tie event.
The steel-on-steel aesthetic of the fixed steel bezel and steel case is a design synonymous with the Manhattan Constellation introduced in 1982. A sun-brushed silvery dial is matched with 18K white gold indexes for added opulence behind, which beats the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8800, a highly reliable self-winding movement with a 55-hour power reserve.
11. Omega De Ville Prestige Small Seconds 41mm (Ref. 434.13.41.20.10.001)
The De Ville Prestige line has been adorning the wrists of Omega enthusiasts since 1994 and finds itself in its third generation, still upholding its values of elegance combined with unusual optical aesthetics. While the 41mm polished case of this model might seem regular, the dial is anything but.
The dial color can only be described as pine green and features a random vertical pattern in a sun-brushed finish – potentially making each dial individual. Golden-applied indexes and hands contrast beautifully against this color. The thin Roman numerals and cabochon indexes create a minimalist quality synonymous with dress pieces.
Behind the intriguing dial sits the Master Co-Axial caliber 8802, which is also visible through the sapphire caseback. A self-winding movement with a decent 55-hour power reserve displaying time, small seconds, and a date at the 3 o’clock position.
The Seamaster namesake hardly needs an introduction. Originally introduced in 1948, and has been in the catalog in one way or another ever since. While the Seamaster 300 Professional covers the sporty and diving section, the contemporary Seamaster 300 would appear to be a bit more grown-up.
The model referenced here is finished in steel and 18K Sedna™ gold (rose gold) and features a ceramic bezel insert. The sand-blasted black dial has a brilliant contrast against the golden hands and patina-colored indexes, creating a dichotomy between sportiness and luxury.
With the Master Co-Axial caliber 8400, the watch also presents itself as a rather usable traveling watch. With no date function to worry about, you’ll be able to set time easily and worry-free. There is a blue-dialed version of this reference as well but that veers more towards sportiness rather than dressiness.
The Speedmaster is perhaps the only watch that all enthusiasts unanimously all respect. Whether it be a 321 version or even the Snoopy, there’s a Speedy out there for you. But what if you find yourself in the company of affluent folk? Which Speedmaster would you wear then? Well, the ref. 324.32.38.50.02.001, of course (I don’t expect anyone to remember the reference number of any of these pieces but it’s simply called the Speedmaster 38 okay).
As the name suggests, this is a 38mm Speedy sporting interesting attributes compared to the mainstream brothers. First, it’s worn on a light leather strap making for a more dressy aesthetic. Elongated gold indexes on the dial match the minimalist approach when combined with the smaller seconds track on the outer rim of the dial.
The bezel is finished in aluminum and doesn’t seem to have the same visual noise as the bezels found on other Speedmasters. Interestingly enough, this reference also has a 100m water resistance rating, double that of a normal Speedmaster, which is excellent if your formal occasion happens to have a pool and you feel inclined to take a dive.
14. Omega De Ville Tresor Small Seconds 40mm (Ref. 435.13.40.21.03.002)
Moving back to purely dress-oriented pieces with the De Ville Trésor. The Trésor line has been in production since 1949, and this contemporary version is a no-nonsense dress piece that, if it were alive, would scoff at the word “sporty”.
Embodying elegance in a simple 40mm stainless steel case featuring highly polished edges and lugs matched with a domed deep blue dial. The long and slender 18K white gold hands are complimented with elongated white gold hour markers to create a rather slender look, matching the slender case thickness of 10.1mm.
Thanks to the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8926 within, the timepiece tells hours and minutes with the addition of a small seconds sub registrar located at the 6 o’clock position. This METAS-certified movement has a rather robust 72-hour power reserve and features a manual-winding mechanism allowing for the entire case to be thinner due to the lack of a self-winding rotor.
With a Speedmaster for every Tuesday of the month, you could opt for a Seamaster for every other day. If you like your Seamaster with a tad of grandeur, perhaps the Seamaster 1948 could be the one for you – released to celebrate the very first Seamaster models of 1948 with vintage styling and modern technology.
Platinum was used to construct the 38mm polished case, a material we rarely see used in the horology world. In fact, the domed opaline dial is also finished in platinum and features rose gold hour markers, dauphine hands, and a vintage Omega logo.
The distinctive design continues when you flip the case, revealing the METAS-certified Master Chronometer caliber 8807 behind the sapphire caseback. The sapphire crystal is laser-engraved and lacquered (by hand) with a Chris-Craft boat and a Gloster Meteor aircraft. These vessels were used in WWII, and the aviators wore, you guessed it, Omega.
16. Omega Constellation Master Chronometer 41mm Black Dial (Ref. 131.33.41.21.01.001)
The Manhattan Constellation might not be for everyone, but this black option might persuade you otherwise. Sized for contemporary tastes at 41mm and features a blend of a steel case, a polished black ceramic bezel, and something called Liquidmetal™. This is a blend of titanium, zirconium, and copper, which Omega bonds with ceramic to allow for increased hardness which allows them to use different finishing methods.
The unembellished sun-brushed black dial is subtly decorated with the use of rhodium-plated hour markers, hands, and the Omega logo. Timekeeping duties are dealt with by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8900. METAS-approved and equipped with a 60-hour power reserve.
Boutique and limited editions are something you either love or hate, but we cannot deny just how special these pieces sometimes are. Omega Boutiques had the opportunity to sell this Seamaster featuring visual appeal like nothing else in the product line.
A 39.5mm polished case with a gorgeous burgundy lacquered domed dial displaying a gradient color change from a lighter center to a deeper outer dial. 18K white gold hour markers and hands make the dress-orientated piece highly legible with a subtle date aperture located at the 6 o’clock position.
The caseback displays more of Omega’s craftsmanship, with several different engravings paying tribute to the brand’s iconography and achievements over the centuries. The same pattern can be found on the inside of the special World of Omega watch box.
18. Omega De Ville Tresor 41mm Grey Dial (Ref. 435.53.40.21.06.001)
From one minimalist piece to the next, here we have a De Ville Trésor sporting an 18K rose gold case measuring 40mm in diameter and with a 44.8mm lug-to-lug the watch wears comfortably on most wrists. A snug 10.8mm thickness means it’ll slide under most cuffs, but you wouldn’t want to hide this piece.
The domed grey enamel dial is subtle yet beautiful to behold and juxtaposes elegantly with the elongated rose gold hour indexes and thin hands. The dial finish is thanks to the Grand Feu technique, or the art of fusing glass to metal which is incredibly hard to execute.
Matched with a grey leather strap and the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8929, the watch not only shines in beauty but in technological prowess as well – a manual-winding movement, METAS-certified, and with a robust 72-hour power reserve.
19. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer Sedna Gold (Ref. 220.50.43.22.02.001)
The world timer complication was officially featured on a wristwatch for the first time in 1931, thanks to the innovation of Louis Cottier, a brilliant Swiss watchmaker. Omega’s contemporary version finds itself in the everyday option of their catalog – the Aqua Terra.
To add to the dressy aesthetic of this piece, the case and three-link bracelet are fully constructed from 18K yellow gold or Sedna™ gold. The hour markers and hands are also finished in gold and are filled with lume.
While the case is something special, the dial is where the noteworthy craftsmanship of Omega begins to show. They took an unusual spin on the world timer complication using texture, color, and finishing techniques to make a busy dial appear a lot more visually appealing.
In the center, you’ll find a grade 5 titanium plate that has been laser-engraved to display a realistic globe as well as the watch’s namesake at noon. Chemical processing on said globe allows Omega to display topography and different biomes without the use of paint.
Surrounding this titanium plate is a 24-hour display behind a Hesalite crystal, split to display day and night time hours. As with other world timers, you’ll find the names of cities towards the outer edge of the dial, some between the faceted hour makers and some on the rehaut (or flange).
It would be hard to find another world timer that features such attention to detail at the price point, and while many would prefer a normal Seamaster or a Speedmaster, those that know will know just how special this piece is. And those who don’t know might just appreciate the globe on your watch because it looks quite cool.
20. Omega De Ville Tourbillon (Ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)
While the Tourbillon might not be essential in the world we live in today, it was essential not so long ago. The first Tourbillon wristwatch caliber was actually created by Omega in 1947, but the first Tourbillon was created by legendary watchmaker Abraham Louis Breguet in 1801. Originally created to be used in pocket watches to massively improve accuracy, they are slightly useless on wristwatches.
When you first see this watch, you realize the Tourbillon is purely there for aesthetics. Somewhat reminiscent of the Omega La Magique, the 43mm rose and white gold case features the Tourbillon in the center of the sun-brushed dial. Every part of this opulent piece is handmade by a select group of horologists at Omega’s Atelier Tourbillon.
Across the Tourbillon sits a titanium bridge from which the seconds hand runs, forged from rose gold; something you won’t see often and sets the watch apart from the other Tourbillon options on the market. Turning the case reveals the expertly finished Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 2640 finished in pure 18K rose gold.
Conclusion
If you’re looking for a timepiece that breaks away from the onslaught of sports models we’ve seen over the past 20 years, you’ve got plenty of options now. Omega has a rich history of creating some of the most desirable and iconic dress-orientated models, and there’s a version for each of us. If not, simply buy a vintage pie pan Constellation; nothing beats a vintage gold Omega.
Pilot watches these days are either too fancy, which hurts legibility, or they are overpriced statement watches. However, this is where Hamilton’s pilot watches stand out from the crowd. They are not the hallmark of engineering and luxury, but they make reliable, easily readable, and affordable “flingers.”
With their sporty appeal, these pilot watches are perfect as a tool watch for pilots and aviators, while also making for nice casual wear for folks who want a bold look. Enthusiasts and collectors call them a bang for the buck, and it’s not hard to see why.
In this review, Timezone365 compiled a list of the 15 best Hamilton Pilot watch models available. We will take a closer look at their increasingly beautiful designs, solid engineering, and attention to detail to help you find a favorable pick.
About Hamilton Pilot Watches
Hamilton creates some of the most affordable luxury pilot watches – because you get the reputation, quality, and attention to detail. Sure, some uptight watch collectors think it’s the bottom barrel of the Swatch Group, but it poses a double entendre.
Unlike exquisite, handcrafted timepieces, Hamilton watches mostly use off-the-shelf calibers and materials with automated machines. But there’s no denying they’re top-class watches with all the makings of a great Flieger.
They are tough timepieces that draw inspiration from classic pilot models developed for military officers during the Second World War. All the fifteen models we’ll recommend in this review carry different designs, movements, case sizes, straps, and prices. But they all have durability, legibility, and functionality in common.
The caliber often has a hairspring or silicon balance spring to prevent magnetic shocks and withstand heavy vibrations. They are also equipped with aviation-themed functions such as chronographs, tachymeters, bi-directional bezels, GMT functions, and slide-rule bezels.
While commercial aircraft have a sizeable dashboard chronometer, pilots can accurately calculate landing time, fuel consumption, and speed with a finger in case of emergency or in smaller airplanes.
Hamilton tells a story with their pilot watches. Many of them symbolize the war times and flight records or appear in iconic Hollywood movies. If you love Hamilton, you always stay with the brand, even when you acquire more exclusive watches in your collection.
History of Hamilton Pilot Watches
Hamilton has been a leading watchmaker since 1892 but started creating aviation watches in 1914 during World War 1. The Swiss watchmaker had a military contract to design and supply watches to the US airmail pilots. Hamilton also played a critical role in supporting the US Air Force pilots and aviators during expeditions in the 1900s.
The Swiss brand was even awarded the Army Navy-E for excellence in manufacturing for their efforts in WWII. Hamilton watches also appeared in several blockbusters and award-winning movies at the time, including Elvis Presley wearing Ventura in Blue Hawaii.
In addition, they were official timekeepers of four commercial airlines, which proves their dedication to precision in flight. Hamilton’s flagship pilot watch is the iconic Hamilton Khaki Aviation, which has had models featured on military issues and is a popular option among pilots and watch collectors today.
Most of its contemporary aviation models, though, draw inspiration from the Second World War. With a rich history and a commitment to innovation, Hamilton keeps producing exceptional pilot watches today.
The Best Hamilton Watches That Are Ready For Flight
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer (Ref. H76719530)
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer (ref. H76719530) is modeled after pocket watches used during the World War. Notably, it resembles the Hamilton Model 23 – a popular stopwatch among WWII navigators, considering the watch’s vintage dial and chronograph style.
They both share a similar textured black dial finish, railroad minute track, gold-coated Arabic numerals, and counter at 6 o’clock. The Pilot Pioneer has a 43mm 316L satin-brushed stainless steel case with a 20mm lug width.
It’s also open case back style revealing its ETA/6498-1 mechanical movement with a 50-hour power reserve. As a true pilot watch, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer has a bidirectional bezel that can be used to track elapsed time, fuel consumption, or how long it takes to complete that surface swim.
It’s actually water-resistant to 100 meters, which is enough resistance for navigators to swim to shore in their wristwatches. Overall, it’s a sporty watch that’s specifically capable as an instrument timepiece where rugged and bold is better than clean and sleek.
2. Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono (Ref. H77906940)
Hamilton packs all the features of an analog flight computer device in this watch. The cluttered dial alone is telling in the eyes of an aviator or pilot watch enthusiast. It has three sub-dials and bold Arabic numerals.
At the three o’clock position, the sub-dial is a sub-seconds counter, a 30-minute chronograph counter is positioned at 6 o’clock, and a 12-hour chronograph counter at the 12 o’clock position. There’s also a day and date window set at 9 o’clock.
That’s not all. The Khaki Aviation X-Wind Automatic Chrono (ref. H77906940) has two inner bezels with a tachymeter scale that can calculate speed over a known distance. It’s this array of functions that makes it have multiple crowns and pushers.
For aesthetics, the dial is a sunburst cobalt blue that portrays different shades when lights hit the surface. It also has polished syringe-like hands with a touch of red on some parts of the sub-dials and markers. Additionally, it’s a large watch with a case measuring 45mm in diameter and a thickness of 14.85mm.
3. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Auto (Ref. H64615135)
You may have spotted this watch on ex-NASA pilot Joseph Cooper (Matthew McConaughey) from the Academy Award-winning movie, Interstellar. It is a watch designed to appear robust but smaller than it seems.
Compared to larger pilot watches, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Auto (ref. H64615135) has a case diameter of 42mm and a case thickness of only 11.85mm thick. What’s more, it has a stellar dial. Hamilton made the conventionally small markers larger than the conventionally large ones.
Thus instead of a small day and date window, you find a large day window right about the 12 o’clock window and a relatively small date window at the 6 o’clock position. Large minute markers and silver-toned minute indices are also found on the bezel.
Now to the movement; this watch is powered by the Hamilton Caliber H-40, which can be viewed through the open case back. The movement has a power reserve of 80 hours, so you can set the watch aside for three days without worrying about its accuracy. And its 100m water resistance is perfect for everyday wear or as a tool watch.
4. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical (Ref. H76419931)
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical (ref. H76419931) is a modern replica of a 1970s classic pilot watch, the Hamilton W10. It retains the W10’s retro-inspired design, which is evident in the simplicity of the dial’s features – clean black dial, crisp white Arabic numerals, and fauxtina lume-treated sword handset and indices.
Unlike the W10, however, this watch features a glossy, grainy textured finish on the dial and mineral crystal glass with an anti-reflective coating.
With a 36mm x 33mm case size and a 9.95mm thickness, the Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical (ref. H76419931) must be one of the thinnest aviation watches. And this relatively thin watch is powered by the H-50 hand-wound movement based on the ETA 2801-2 caliber. Plus, the watch comes with a quality 18mm NATO strap.
5. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto (Ref. H76645140)
Here’s a watch designed to cater to the calculation needs of pilots and aviation-inclined travelers. It can perform various calculation functions such as fuel consumption, distance, and speed, and it even has a GMT function that allows pilots to track two time zones simultaneously.
On the inside of the watch’s 42mm and 10.87mm thick case is the GMT function, a 24-hour scale, and traditional 12-hour markers. The red-tipped second hand also serves as the GMT hand allowing the wearer to tell the time quickly.
Also, the screw-down crown doesn’t just enhance water resistance. It also allows for easy and quick adjustment of the handsets and one-hour increments in the GMT function. A unique feature of this watch is the bi-directional slide-rule bezel which is suitable for various calculations, including unit, nautical miles, meters & currency conversions.
The surface of the bezel has a scratch-resistant covering with steel notches on the side to allow for easy grip and turn. Overall, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto (ref. H76645140) is an ideal travel companion that will surely give you a bang for your buck.
6. Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind GMT Chrono Quartz (Ref. H77932160)
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Chrono Quartz GMT (ref. H77932160) is a bold, high-performance timepiece with complex aviation features. It features a sporty design with a large stainless steel case measuring 46mm in diameter and 13.75mm in thickness.
This large case has a PVD coating and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, ensuring maximum visibility. The sunburst green dial with yellow sub-dials is unique. It features a chronograph, cross-wind calculator, a 60-second counter, GMT function, large and easy-to-read Arabic numerals, luminous hands, and a date display at 3 o’clock.
The watch is also equipped with three screw-down crowns and pushers for tracking time and regulating the sub-dials.
7. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Bronze (Ref. H76709530)
This watch is the same model as the first one on the list, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer (ref. H76719530), with minor distinctions. Like its counterpart, the Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Bronze comes in a case measuring 43mm in diameter but with a 0.5mm difference in thickness as this watch is only 13mm thick.
Another distinguishing factor is the material of the case. Unlike a stainless steel case, this watch is made of bronze and titanium, making it more durable and sturdy.
Thickness and case material aside, all other features are the same; 50-hour power reserve, bi-directional bezel, brown calf leather strap, black dial, anti-reflective sapphire glass, and a movement powered by the ETA 6498-1 caliber.
8. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Chrono Quartz (Ref. H76722531)
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Chrono Quartz (ref. H76722531) is a sleek timepiece encased in a stainless steel case. The case, which measures 44mm in diameter and 11.05mm thick, is attached to a cow leather strap and has an H-buckle.
The watch has a sleek black dial with sand-colored indices, large Arabic numerals, and luminous hands. For aviation use and to indicate its chronograph function, the Hamilton Pilot Chrono Quartz Hamilton (ref. H76722531) is designed with three sub-dials, all well situated at the dial’s center.
At the 2 o’clock position, there is a 10-second stopwatch, a 60-minute counter at the 6 o’clock position, and a 30-minute counter at the 10 o’clock position. There is also a date window at the 4:30 position. Hamilton did an excellent job ensuring the dial wasn’t encumbered despite its large numerals and chronograph functions.
Moreover, the watch has an open case back through which you can see the Quartz movement powered by the Caliber 251.274. While it is not as impressive as an automatic movement, it does offer the advantage of affordability and requires less maintenance.
So, if you want a pilot watch that is simple and affordable yet has necessary and useful chronograph functions, try the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Chrono Quartz (ref. H76722531).
9. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chrono (Ref. H76409530)
Here’s another aviation watch modeled after watches produced during World War II. It has similar features to other Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer models, particularly the H76719530 and the H76719530 models.
The difference, however, is in the size, chronograph function, and movement. Its case size is only 40mm instead of 43mm and is slightly thicker, measuring 14.35mm in thickness. On the matte black grainy-textured dial sits two sub-dials: a 30-seconds counter at the 3 o’clock position and a 60-second counter at the 9 o’clock.
Both sub-dials are adjusted by the two pump pushers located at either side of the large notched screw-down crown. Unlike other Hamilton pilot watches, the Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph (ref. H76409530) doesn’t have a bezel.
However, what the watch lacks in a bezel, it makes up for it in its chronograph features and powerful movement. The H-51-Si Caliber powers the watch. This movement is equipped with a 60-hour of power reserve, 4Hz frequency, kinetic chain, and anti-magnetic silicon balance spring.
10. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono (Ref. H76726130)
If you think the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Automatic (ref. H76645140) watch is complicated, you’ve not met this watch. It is a highly sophisticated, stylish, and classic watch built with features that are designed to serve pilots and aviation enthusiasts.
True to the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter, this watch features a slide rule bezel and tachymeter for easy speed measurements. So whether you are adding, subtracting, multiplying, converting currencies and kilometers to nautical miles, or calculating speed, all you need to do is align the appropriate numbers on the bezel and flange to get a result.
Note, though, that the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono (ref. H76726130) is no mere Aviation Converter. It is also a chronograph, so the black sunburst background dial has three chronograph counters at the center with pump pushers at the side of the case for easy adjustment.
The Valjoux 7750-based H-21-Si Caliber powers the watch’s features, hence the day-date feature at 3 o’clock. And this movement is visible through the decorated open case back, allowing the wearer a glimpse of the inner workings of this Hamilton masterpiece.
12. Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Day Date Auto (Ref. H77785733)
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Day Date Auto (ref. H77785733) is a statement piece that combines aesthetics and specialized functionality. A beautiful blend of orange, white, and black colors on the dial, bezel, and slide rule catches the eye.
And also, its black PVD-coated 45mm stainless steel case with brushed and polished finish blends impeccably with the dial. But beautiful as the Aviation X-Wind may seem, it’s closer to a super-complication than a dressy timepiece. I’ll start with its drift angle calculator.
Hamilton installed the old-school flight computer E6B in this contemporary watch to achieve this function. Now, pilots can easily calculate cross-winds, estimate fuel burn, and measure ground speed using the inner rehaut measurements and rotating bezel on the X-wind.
Further, it features a tachymeter, 12 and 24-hour military scales, and a day/date window positioned at 9 o’clock. Like many complicated watches, it has a display case back showcasing its Caliber H-30 movement with an impressive 80-hour power reserve.
12. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Chrono Quartz (Ref. H76512133)
The Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Chrono Quartz (ref. H76512133) is one of the most affordable Hamilton pilot watches with impressive Flieger features and the appeal of a dress watch.
It sports a durable 41mm stainless steel case with scratch-resistant anti-reflective sapphire crystal. And a stainless steel strap with a folding buckle. But the beauty lies beyond its dazzling silvery shell in its black dial.
It has a beautiful arrangement of large Arabic numerals, a date window, sword hands, and two subdials (a 60 seconds counter & a 30 seconds counter) in contrasting white tones. They give it a simple black-on-white style you can wear to formal occasions or man a flight with.
13. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Air Zermatt Pilot Day Date Auto (Ref. H64625131)
This Pilot Day-Date edition is dedicated to Hamilton’s partnership with Air Zermatt – a helicopter rescue service company in the Upper Valais region of Switzerland. Its design pays special attention to legibility and date-keeping.
The dial is deep black with a highly contrasting blue and white SuperLuminova-treated hands and indicators. They not only make it “ultra-readable” but complement the silver-tone stainless steel case and bracelet.
As said earlier, Hamilton takes the “day and date” in this model’s name seriously. The date window is at 6 o’clock, and the day window sits conspicuously at 12. And it runs on an 80-hour reserve Hamilton’s H-40 automatic movement.
14. Hamilton Khaki Aviation ETO Chrono Quartz (Ref. H77612933)
ETO here is short for Estimated Time Over, meaning that the watch can accurately calculate remaining flight time and aid on-time landings.
This classic aviator-themed watch has a complex dial and movement. It has four hands; the hour and minute sword-like hands with syringe-like tips. And two chronograph hands: the one in silver finish is the main hand that performs the conventional chronograph stopwatch function, while the rattrapante hand (the orange hand) works along with the chronograph and stops when you depress the pusher.
There are two sub-dials on its black dial: the one at the 12 o’clock position is a 60-second counter, while the striking silver subdial measures the chronograph’s progress.
The bold case is a bi-directional bezel that measures appropriate speed, desired arrival time, or flight duration. But what buffs up the case – although it’s only 13.55mm thick – are the three pushers and dual screw-down crowns.
15. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Auto Chrono (Ref. H76776733)
We saved the best for last because the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Auto Chrono (ref. H76776733) is no mere pilot watch. It’s a timeless limited edition timepiece that tells the story of Italian pilot Dario Costa’s record tunnel flight.
The Khaki Takeoff is a “big man’s” watch size at 46mm and 15.95mm thick. And on this sizeable piece of land is an homage to the two tunnels Dario flew through. Its two yellow subdial rings signify the tunnels, and super luminova on the seconds hand and indicators up to the 43rd minute for the record flight time.
This watch is limited to 100 pieces in respect to the daring maximum height Dario’s plane could fly inside the tunnel. Hamilton put in a little twist to the case of this watch by retaining the original design of classic bullhead stopwatches.
With its crown and pushers on top, the Khaki Takeoff case becomes more comfortable and stylish. Plus it eliminates the risk of the crown jutting into your skin if you have smaller wrists since it’s relatively oversized. Additionally, the watch case is attached to a thin plate on which the calf leather strap rests.
This case can be removed and inserted back into the plate at will. When removed, you can either place it on a dash mount or turn it and admire the automatic movement of the H-31 caliber.
Ultimately, the bi-directional bezel is worthy of mention. It is pretty smooth, has a firm grip, and has a “LOCK” inscription in bright yellow at the side to guide when inserting the case into the plate. And what is most exciting is how the outer bezel rotates the inner bezel.
Conclusion
Hamilton has been a trusted name in the world of aviation watches for centuries, and their pilot watches remain contenders with the best. And they are more open to consumers with their competitive prices. We’ve listed the best 15 of their most stylish, functional, modern, and sophisticated fliegers.
With a range of designs and features, there is sure to be a Hamilton watch that will meet your needs and exceed your expectations. So what are you waiting for? Cruise through the 15 Best Hamilton Pilot Watches and find the perfect timepiece to take your aviation tastes to new heights.
Panerai is making a new version of the Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Acciaio with a bracelet that features the design of the company’s signature “lever bridge” (crown protector) as part of the links.
The first bracelet offered by Panerai, in 1999, had the same design. According to Panerai, the bracelet is, “strong and robust but much lighter than those previously developed by Panerai, the new bracelet is made of AISI 316L stainless steel, the same as the Luminor 1950 case.”
New Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Acciaio
The case features a brushed finish with a polished bezel that contrasts the matte surfaces. A case that Panerai calls slim and light thanks to the svelte dimensions of caliber P.9010, which is just 6 mm thick.
A sapphire case back offers a view of the movement which boasts a three-day power reserve, wound by a bidirectional oscillating weight. The automatic movement is fitted with a device for stopping the balance wheel when setting the watch and the system for rapidly adjusting the hour hand, which can be moved forwards or backward without interfering with the running of the second hand.
Panerai 44 mm PAM00723 (left), 42 mm PAM00722 (right)
New Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Acciaio
There are two versions of the new Luminor Marina 1950, both are black with Panerai’s sandwich structure, a blue hand at 9 o’clock that indicates small seconds, and large luminous beige hour indexes, with Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 for the 42 mm version (Ref. PAM00722), and at 12, 6, and 9 for the 44 mm version (Ref. PAM00723).
The bracelet of the new Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic can be replaced with another strap using system Panerai’s patented quick change system which uses a little push-button under each lug, operated by a special tool that is included. It is worth noting that the steel bracelet is also available separately and it is compatible with other Luminor 1950 variants that have the P.9010 movement.
The retail price is $8,100 for the 42 mm model and $8,200 for the 44 mm version.
Why is the Patek Philippe Nautilus so expensive now?
There is no denying that Patek Philippe is one of the top watch companies in the world. And when you ask a group of horology enthusiasts about Patek. “Nautilus” is the obvious and most frequently used name to describe the brand.
But many people still wonder why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is so pricey for a watch that is made of stainless steel. And has only a date with three hands and a date display. Why are people prepared to spend six figures on the Nautilus because it is so unique?
Does the Nautilus Bubble Exist? Let’s look more closely.
Why is the Patek Philippe Nautilus so expensive now?
By all means, the Patek Philippe Nautilus is a true watch brand. The Patek Philippe Nautilus watch signifies luxury, versatility, value, and quality in addition to the hype. So if you’re wondering why it’s so pricey. The explanation is actually rather straightforward. Let’s examine the cost of Patek Philippe Nautilus watches in more detail. Below are seven reasons.
Quality
This is the most obvious one: why is Nautilus so pricey. The brand Patek Philippe connotes quality. both in structure and design. You are aware that this watch was made by experts who may have worked on it for months or perhaps years. The quality control requirements are very high. The quality control requirements are very high. The Patek Philippe archives have a searchable “extract” for each watch. This is true for every model because hardly any other watch brand can provide that level of assurance.
Prestige
The allure of the Patek Philippe brand can hardly be overstated. It is often believed to be the most prestigious luxury watch company in the world. The name foretells tastefulness. It displays the sophistication and taste of its owner.
Versatility
Many concur that the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1A would be the best option if you could only own one watch. You may wear this watch everywhere and on any occasion.
Wear it to the workplace, the court. Hey! wear it to the beach with shorts. The dial is black and blue and the case is water resistant up to 120 meters. The Nautilus was initially intended to be a high-end sports watch. However it has evolved into an iconic design. Celebrities, Athletes, and prosperous Businesspeople from all over the world adore it.
Capital Value
Many watch collectors typically consider the word “investment” to be dirty. After all, purchasing a watch should be motivated by a desire to wear it. Not by concern that its cost might increase. The reality is wholly different.
Luxury watch companies like Patek Philippe consistently maintain its value.
Hype
It’s a done deal. The most hyped watch in the world is the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711. There is no denying that the Ref 5711’s value has been greatly boosted by hype. Nobody knows how long this will continue.
Scarcity
The exact annual production volumes for Patek Philippe remain a closely-kept secret. They are thought to number between 50,000 and 70,000 timepieces per year. About 75% of those feature mechanical movements, with 25% being quartz. A total of 246 different models are in production. This implies that no one model is probably produced in large quantities. There is a genuine sense of shortage as a result. especially for well-known designs like the Nautilus Ref 5711/1A. You won’t ever find one available for you to try on at your local AD in the current market. Of course! Patek Philippe has chosen to use this tactic on purpose. one that has aided in safeguarding the brand’s intrinsic value for more than a century.
Significance
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1A is the brand’s second high-end sports timepiece. An athletic watch that gave birth to a whole collection. One that is currently the brand’s most well-liked (rivalled only by Calatrava). This watch will always hold special significance for both the brand and watchmaking history. Its low annual production statistics indicate that its importance will keep growing. In other words. Its worth will only increase.
These seven key factors help explain why is Patek Nautilus so expensive. One thing is for sure, the current demand for these watches is not showing any signs of abating.
Why is the Patek Philippe Nautilus so expensive now?
Why is the Patek Philippe Nautilus so expensive now?
How Long Is The Patek Philippe Nautilus Waitlist
The lengthy waitlist for the Patek Philippe Nautilus is a result of the small amount of watches that leave the manufacturing each year. Patek just cannot keep up with demand. Because so many of these watches are constructed by hand. It is challenging for this family-run business to expand. Simply because of that, it will never be easy to purchase this watch brand new. Additionally, buying a Nautilus at the official list price was very impossible. At Patek shops, waiting eight to ten years was typical the reason.
Why is the Patek Philippe Nautilus so expensive now?
Does The Nautilus Hold Its Value
The Nautilus collection has a very high rate of value retention. Due to the watch’s high demand compared to its limited supply at authorized retail stores. Many watch collectors and aficionados started looking on the open market. Prices here have always been higher than the list price in accordance with supply and demand laws, although they often stay within a normal range.
In the used market, steel references can increase in value by a factor of four. Whereas gold references always fetch a premium over MSRP. The 5711 stainless steel reference is an excellent illustration of how the Patek Philippe Nautilus is appreciating in value. Why is Patek Philippe’s Nautilus watch so pricey? August 2020, two years prior, had an average price of more than $60,000. The watch industry went into a frenzy when Patek President Thierry Stern announced at the end of 2020 that the 5711 will be discontinued.
The frenetic atmosphere was further fuelled by reports of record auction prices. And the rest was taken care of by speculators who recognized the Nautilus as a potential investment offering tremendous profits. Prices have been continuously rising. As a result, prices on the open market rose steadily. Reaching new highs until the watch was eventually sold for more than $200,000. Since then, the market has started to stabilize once more. However, the 5711/1A-010 still costs roughly six times as much as its initial advertised price. At a market price of almost $269,000 today.
Why is the Patek Philippe Nautilus so expensive now?
Zenith is expanding its Defy Skyline series, which debuted at the show last year, as a centerpiece of its new launches for LVMH Watch Week 2023. The Zenith Skyline collection is the company’s updated take on its original Defy watches, which debuted in 1969. They give a totally modern rendition of the Defy’s distinctive angular design. A series of mid-size iterations of the Defy Skyline that feature the collection’s distinctive geometric case and integrated bracelet design inside a more compact 36mm packaging are making their debut alongside a new skeletonized variant driven by a high-frequency movement.
The overall case profile of the new mid-size Zenith Defy Skyline 36mm watches is virtually identical to the full-size 41mm models, although everything has been shrunk down in order to correspond with their reduced sizing. Just like the larger models, the cases of the new 36mm watches are crafted from stainless steel with an integrated lug design, and they feature the collection’s signature twelve-sided bezels surrounding flat sapphire crystals above their dials. Similar to their full-size siblings, the new 36mm versions of the Zenith Defy Skyline feature screw-down display casebacks that offer a view of their self-winding movements, while star-signed winding crowns at the 3 o’clock location screw down to the case in order to help create 100 meters of water resistance. Additionally, while the standard version of the watch features a regular stainless steel bezel, Zenith also offers the new Defy Skyline 36mm with a bezel that is set with 52 VVS brilliant-cut white diamonds.
At the time of launch, Zenith is offering the new mid-size Defy Skyline 36mm with the option of three different dial colors. The first of the trio is the same deep metallic blue that can be found on the dial of the full-size 41mm version, while the other two are metallic pastel tones in either green or pink that offer a significantly softer overall aesthetic, and which aren’t available on any of the larger models. Just like the dials found inside the full-size Skyline watches, the dials fitted to the new 36mm versions feature an engraved geometric pattern consisting of four-pointed stars that reimagine Zenith’s “double Z” logo from the 1960s, along with luminous baton-style hour markers and an angled chapter ring that follows the same twelve-sided shape of the bezel. At the 3 o’clock location sits a date window with a color-matched calendar wheel, but rather than having a small 1/10th of a second hand inside a register at the 9 o’clock location, the 36mm versions of the Zenith Defy Skyline feature standard centrally-mounted seconds hands. That said, just like the larger models, the dials fitted to the 36mm versions opt for minimal text, with the only words being the “Zenith” name below the logo at 12 o’clock, along with the obligatory “Swiss Made” signature at the 6 o’clock location.
While the focal points of the full-size 41mm Defy Skyline models are their high-frequency movements that are based on the famous El Primero chronograph, the mid-size Zenith Defy Skyline watches are powered by the more conventional Elite 670 automatic movement. Despite still being one of Zenith’s manufacture calibers, the Elite 670 runs at a fairly traditional frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz), while offering users a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. In addition to having its seconds hand mounted at the center, the Zenith Elite 670 also isn’t a high-frequency movement, meaning that its seconds hand makes one full rotation around the dial every minute, instead of once every ten seconds like on its full-size 41mm siblings. Similar to other contemporary Zenith automatic movements, the Elite 670 is fitted with a skeletonized star-shaped oscillating weight that can be viewed through the sapphire display window in its caseback.
In the same way that the overall case design has been carried over from the larger models, Zenith’s integrated quick-release strap system has also been incorporated into the case of the new 36mm version of the Defy Skyline. In addition to including their standard stainless steel tapered H-link bracelets, the new 36mm models also come with textured rubber straps fitted with stainless steel folding clasps, and each of the rubber straps comes color-matched to the dial of its watch for a highly cohesive overall aesthetic. Accessing the quick-release system is done by simply pressing the small buttons located on the underside of the integrated lugs, and this means that swapping between strap and bracelet options is a quick and easy process that can be performed on the fly and without the use of any tools.
For high-frequency movements, chronographs are frequently the watch of choice because of their stopwatch feature, which is ideal for making use of the accurate timing capabilities that come along with greater operating rates. Many straightforward three-handed watches with high-frequency movements are available, but when Zenith introduced the first Defy Skyline during LVMH Watch Week last year, it caught some collectors off guard since it seemed to symbolize an odd paradox. On the one hand, it was a watch that utilized a high-beat El Primero movement, the same movement used in Zenith’s renowned chronographs that can measure times to the nearest tenth of a second. On the other hand, it also had a straightforward time-and-date layout and was devoid of even a seconds hand set in the center. Despite having a relatively complex movement, the watch’s display was deceptively straightforward, and aside from having a small-seconds hand that moved quickly, it didn’t really appear as though it featured a particularly unique high-frequency caliber. The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton watch has a highly open-worked dial that displays a reworked version of the company’s high-beat El Primero 3620 movement, in contrast to the original Skyline model’s goal of concealing the complexity of its movement.
Crafted from stainless steel and measuring 41mm in diameter, the outer case of the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton appears to have been carried over from the inaugural model that was unveiled last year, and it features an angular and faceted case with integrated lugs and a fixed twelve-sided bezel. Although a stainless steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet and angular bezel is a popular style of timepiece that a lot of brands are producing right now, Zenith’s Skyline series actually draws its inspiration from the brand’s original Defy watches that first made an appearance in 1969. That said, the Skyline range is very much a modernized version of this original design ethos, and in addition to having a significantly more contemporary aesthetic, the case of the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton also benefits from a number of modern updates such as a flat sapphire crystal protecting the dial and a screw-on display case back to showcase its high-frequency automatic movement. A signed crown at the 3 o’clock location offers access to the movement, and it screws down to the case in order to help create 100 meters of water resistance.
Like most skeletonized watches, the visual party piece of the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is its open-worked dial and skeletonized high-beat movement. Available in either black or blue, the colorways aren’t just limited to the dials, and the open-worked movements themselves also feature bridges that are finished in a matching hue of blue or black for a highly cohesive overall aesthetic. The cutouts in the dial offer a symmetrical appearance that forms the shape of a four-pointed star, while the chapter ring surrounding the dial contains applied baton markers that offer a fairly legible display, despite the fairly busy visual aesthetic of the watch. At the 6 o’clock location is a small-second hand that makes one full rotation every ten seconds (rather than every minute), and at the center of the dial are a pair of skeletonized hour and minute hands that are responsible for displaying the time. Additionally, both of the centrally-mounted hands, along with each one of the hour markers are finished with Super-LumiNova C1 for added legibility in the dark.
Aside from having a skeletonized dial, the two other most significant updates to accompany the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton are the repositioning of its running second’s hand and the removal of its date display. On the inaugural Skyline model, the running seconds register was at 9 o’clock, while the date window sat opposite it at the 3 o’clock location. On the new Defy Skyline Skeleton, the running second’s hand has been moved to the 6 o’clock location for a more symmetrical layout, while the date complication has been removed entirely in order to offer an unobstructed view of its open-worked movement. Calendar mechanisms typically sit directly under the dial, and when left in place, they can often defeat much of the intended effect created by a skeletonized display. By omitting the various components of the calendar complication (such as the date wheel itself, which occupies a fairly significant amount of visible space), the Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is able to offer a significantly better view of the most visually interesting areas of its high-frequency movement.
While aesthetics are certainly a key part of the equation, the primary purpose of skeletonization in watchmaking is to show off the internal movement. With that in mind, there isn’t much point in showing off the mundane, and if you are going to bother making a skeletonized watch in the first place, it ideally should be one that is powered by a rather interesting caliber. In this area, the Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton doesn’t disappoint, and fully visible through both the open-worked dial and sapphire case back window is the El Primero 3620 SK automatic movement. Running at a frequency of 36,000vph (5 Hz) and offering users a power reserve of approximately 60 hours, the El Primero 3620 features a silicon escape wheel and it drives the 1/10th of a second-hand directly from its escapement, which allows it to naturally display partial seconds. The El Primero 3620 SK is more-or-less a stripped-down and skeletonized version of the high-frequency caliber used to power Zenith’s famous tenth-of-a-second chronograph watches, and despite the fact that it is essentially just a time-only movement, its rapidly moving seconds hand still allows it to measure a tenth of a second — even if that functionality is relegated to a small hand at the 6 o’clock location.
Similar to the original Skyline model, the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton comes with both a stainless steel bracelet and a textured rubber strap that matches the color of its dial and movement. The bracelet offers an angular H-link design with brushed surfaces and polished chamfers along its sides that echo the facets on its case. Meanwhile, the included rubber strap gives the watch a significantly more sporty overall appearance, and it features a stainless steel folding buckle that joins the two ends together on the bottom of the wrist. Most importantly, swapping between the two options is a quick and tool-free process that involves nothing more than pressing the two small buttons on the underside of the integrated lugs, pulling out the current strap or bracelet, and then plugging the other one back in its place. Given that the Defy Skyline Skeleton features integrated lugs, you are more-or-less stuck with a proprietary strap attachment system, and the fact that Zenith includes both options with the watch is a nice touch that provides it with two different personalities right out of the box.
TAG Heuer Introduces the Professional 200 Solargraph Watch
TAG Heuer has produced a new titanium version of the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph as part of its most recent batch of new products, which were unveiled in Singapore during LVMH Watch Week. The original TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph made its debut at Watches & Wonders last year with a black DLC-coated stainless steel case paired with a rubber strap and luminous carbon bezel, adding a new degree of independence to the brand’s versatile outdoor sports watch. Although it was only a matter of time until this light-powered movement found its way into other TAG Heuer models, the original Solargraph was almost intended to have a pretty bold design as the company’s first-ever solar-powered clock. The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph delivers the same extremely functional solar movement in a noticeably more traditional overall aesthetic packaging thanks to its sand-blasted titanium case and bracelet.
At a quick glance, the overall design of the new titanium version of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph (ref. WBP1180.BF0000) will be immediately familiar to those that have prior experience with other models from the contemporary Aquaracer collection, with its angular take on a traditional dive watch style case. Measuring 40mm in diameter and offering the same signed-screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, flat sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, and solid screw-down caseback, everything about the overall shape and proportions of this new model is exactly what you would expect from a watch that is part of the current TAG Heuer Aquaracer lineup.
Even the bold twelve-sided rotating timing bezel has also been carried over from the other models from the series, although rather than being constructed from stainless steel components with brushed and polished surfaces, all of the external case parts on the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph are crafted from sand-blasted grade 2 titanium. Just like its siblings (and implied by the “200” in its name), the new titanium version of the Aquaracer Solargraph offers users an ample 200 meters of water resistance, making it perfectly capable of being the care-free outdoor adventure watch that TAG Heuer intends it to be.
Despite having a significantly different external construction than the inaugural Solargraph model, the dial and hands fitted to the new titanium version appear to be virtually identical. Set against a semi-translucent black sunray surface with horizontal lines are applied black-finished indexes that are filled with white Super-LumiNova. Like other solar-powered watches, the semi-translucent surface is a necessary feature in order to allow light to reach the solar panels that reside below it. Surrounding the dial is a chapter ring that contains a white printed minute track, along with small polar blue squares to denote the five-minute markers. Just as before, the “Solargraph” name appears above the depth rating in matching ice blue letters, while a date window sits at the 3 o’clock location.
Similar to the dial, the hands also appear to be carried over from the original Solargraph model, and sitting at the center of the dial of the new titanium TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph are black-finished hour and minute hands that are filled with white Super-LumiNova paired with a polar-blue lacquered seconds hand to match the rest of the dial accents. While the hour hand and markers on the dial all glow green, the minute hand glows blue for added contrast in the dark. As far as I can tell from the initial press photos, the dial and hands appear to be the exact same on the new titanium version of the Aquaracer Solargraph, meaning that this update is largely focused on the case and bracelet of the watch, which both represent significant departures from the original version of the Solargraph that was unveiled last year.
To match its case and bezel, the new titanium version of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph is fitted with a matching bracelet made from sand-blasted grade 2 titanium. Featuring entirely matte surfaces and a fairly standard, flat three-link design, the titanium bracelet fitted to the new Solargraph is fitted with a folding clasp that features a double push-button release and an integrated extension system. While the overall lines of the case and bracelet are virtually identical to the stainless steel version of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer, the fact that the new Solargraph features entirely sand-blasted surfaces give it a noticeably more tool-oriented overall appearance.
While the case of the watch has seen a significant update, the movement powering the new titanium TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph is the exact same, and driving the trio of centrally-mounted hands (plus the date display) is the brand’s Caliber TH50-00 solar-powered quartz movement. Produced exclusively for TAG Heuer and developed and manufactured in partnership with La Joux-Perret, the Caliber TH50-00 can charge itself with either the sun or artificial light. Two minutes of direct sunlight exposure are enough to power the watch for an entire day, and less than 20 hours in the sun will fully charge the watch, which will allow it to run for up to six months in complete darkness.
Given that La Joux-Perret is owned by Citizen, it is highly likely that the TAG Heuer Caliber TH50-00 is (at least on some level) based upon Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology. While some may say that this makes it essentially just a fancy Swiss-made version of an Eco-Drive movement, that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Citizen is an industry leader when it comes to solar-powered watch movements, and having La Joux-Perret make a movement with underlying Eco-Drive technology is ultimately going to yield a far better product than if TAG Heuer were to try to make its very own in-house solar caliber. In this instance, it was probably decided that there was no need to completely reinvent the wheel, especially when the current “wheel” is a very good one that is currently regarded as one of the very best in the industry.
Some people object to quartz watches simply because they don’t offer quite the same romanticism as a traditional mechanical timepiece that consists of dozens (or hundreds) of small metal components working together in perfect harmony and without any intervention from electricity whatsoever. However, many other collectors have reservations that have to do with the perceived lack of autonomy that accompanies a watch that will inevitably require its case be opened up every several years for a routine battery replacement. Due to the laws of physics and current limitations in regard to manufacturing materials, no existing watch will be able to run indefinitely without ever needing intervention at some point in time, although a solar-powered movement guarantees you significantly longer intervals of autonomy compared to a traditional battery-powered timepiece, all while offering the same durability and grab-and-go convenience of quartz timekeeping technology.