Rolex has established itself as the standard luxury watch in the watch industry. The brand’s nickname, “The Crown,” is not unfounded, as it has proven to be the most prominent brand in terms of market share. They created some of the most iconic timepieces of the twentieth and twenty-first century, including the Submariner, Explorer, and GMT-Master.
Collectors have given several variations of these clocks nicknames over the years, including the red and black bezelled GMT-Master II known as the “Coke” GMT, after the legendary soft drink.
THE ROLEX GMT-MASTER
Despite the fact that Rolex is now one of the most prestigious luxury brands, the company’s roots were in the production of functional timepieces. They produced trench timepieces, some of the first purpose-built wristwatches, and supplied them to armed forces during World War I.
They created their first “Oyster” watch in 1926, a watch case that allowed for higher dust and water resistance, improving longevity in tough settings. They famously marketed this by displaying the watch in tanks of water in store windows, and swimmer Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel with a Rolex Oyster on her wrist in 1927.
Fast forward to the 1950s, and custom-made sports watches became extremely popular. While dive watches and chronographs often receive the majority of the focus, global air travel became more affordable and simple, and international trade became more popular. Rolex introduced the Rolex GMT Master reference 6542 in 1954.
The initial reference was 6542 GMT. Master had a changeable 24-hour bezel and a 24-hour hand that reflected the main time. The bezel was the only part of the watch that could track an additional time zone. The capacity to track Greenwich Mean Time of Coordinated Universal Time was developed in collaboration with PanAm Airlines and was required for related documentation, flight tracking, and record keeping.
THE FIRST ROLEX “COKE” GMT
Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II reference 16760 in 1983. The GMT-Master II, which was produced alongside the GMT-Master until its retirement in the late 1990s, debuted the independently adjustable hour hand with the calibre 3085. The main time, 24-hour hand, and bezel could now all be set independently, enabling for the tracking of three timezones.
To get the adjustable hour hand, the 3085 sacrificed the quick adjust date function. On GMT-Master II versions, the date is set simply adjusting the local hour hand. Because of the increased thickness required by the movement, the original 16760 was dubbed the “Fat Lady.”
It also had a larger case, bezel, and crown. While the case was larger, it was only 100 metres water-resistant, which has been the GMT-Master II’s standard to this day. The steel 16760 was only available with an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.
The 16760 was the first GMT-Master model to use a sapphire crystal, white gold hands and indices, which later became common across the whole Rolex line. The 16760 was the model that made the Coke bezel iconic, as it was the only colorway available for the reference.
THE END OF THE “FAT LADY,” INTRODUCING THE 16710
When the 16760 was discontinued in 1988, it was replaced by the 16710. The new calibre 3185 within performed the same tasks as the 3085 but was substantially thinner, allowing the 16710 to have the same form factor as the GMT-Master and current Submariner at the time.
CASE COMPARISON
In comparison to the 16760 “Fat Lady,” the 16760 “Fat Lady” is 39.14mm wide (excluding the crown), 47.6mm lug-to-lug, and 12.6mm thick. The 16710T (tritium dial) was 39mm broad without the crown, 47.11mm from lug to lug, and 12mm thick. Surprisingly, the 16710T is slightly wider, including the crown, measuring 42.19mm wide compared to the 16760’s 42.06mm width.
16710 MODELS AND EVOLUTION
From 1989 through 2005, the Rolex GMT-Master II reference 16710 with the “Coke” red and black bezel was manufactured. This time, the 16710 was offered in stainless steel with red and black (16710A), red and blue (16710B), and all-black bezels (16710N), as well as both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets.
DIAL VARIATIONS
From 1989 to 1997, the hands and markers were still made of white gold, with tritium lume, and were denoted by the T25 indicators at the bottom of the dial. Rolex upgraded the 16710 to Luminova in 1998, with the “Swiss Dial” designation at six o’clock.
Some Luminova versions from 1998 retained the T25 on the dial. Finally, in 2000, the GMT-Master II received Super-LumiNova hands and markers, as well as a “Swiss-made dial” indication beneath the six o’clock index. The “Stick Dial” was also introduced towards the conclusion of the 16710’s manufacture.
The GMT-Master II has always had a Roman numeral two. Rolex developed an uncommon version where the II was inscribed as two straight lines during the changeover period between the 3185 and 3186 movements, hence the nickname.
BRACELET, CRYSTAL, AND CASE EVOLUTIONS
Another gradual advancement was the insertion of solid end-links in 2000. The laser-etched crown logo was added to the crystal in 2003, along with the elimination of the lug holes with late Y-series serial numbers.
In 2007, new plastic certificates and warranty cards were launched, as well as the improved calibre 3186 with Z and M-series serial numbers, which incorporated a Parachrom hairspring improvement.
WHO IS A GMT-MASTER II FOR?
Without a doubt, Rolex produces some of the most dependable mechanical timepieces on the market. They have established themselves as the gold standard in tool-oriented timepieces. If a dependable watch capable of tracking various time zones is required, a Rolex GMT-Master II of any generation is likely to be a good choice.
They are currently for committed collectors of vintage and late model Rolex for the 16760 and 16710 references in specifically. While the “Pepsi” bezel is the most well-known, the “Coke” bezel was the only one available for the 16760.
Furthermore, the red and black bezel 16710 follows in that heritage. For GMT-Master II collectors who like to stick to original versions, the red and black bezel is the way to go. Due to the inconvenient availability of modern Rolex models, some first-time Rolex buyers have turned to discontinued and old versions.
While current market prices are higher than those of new GMT-Master II steel models, they are more stable and readily available than a GMT-Master II at retail. Although it is impossible to anticipate future pricing, history suggests that prices on discontinued models, particularly those that are several years old, will be reasonably steady.
While there are numerous possible benefits to each Rolex model, acquiring old Rolex watches has some drawbacks. When compared to current timepieces, the bands and clasps have a distinct personality.
The bracelets on 16760 and early 16710 Coke bezel GMT Master II watches will have hollow end-links, and all 16760 and 16710 will have stamped clasps, making the bands feel substantially less robust than modern watches.
Furthermore, aluminium bezels are not as scratch and fade-resistant as current ceramic bezels. Many “Coke” bezels have aged well because the paint is less prone to fading, but they will not outlast current ceramic.
The disadvantage of modern ceramic bezels is that they are more likely to shatter with heavy impacts and are more expensive to replace as compared to aluminium, even when vintage accurate OEM aluminium bezels are available.
ALTERNATIVES TO THE ROLEX COKE GMT
If a Rolex Coke GMT isn’t in the cards for a variety of reasons, but the black and red bezel is, here are some more affordable alternatives to consider.
BELL & ROSS BR 03-93 GMT (REF. BR0393-BL-ST/SCA)
The black and red colour combination has its own attraction, but it’s easy to see how seeing that scheme in the same shape may grow boring. The Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT is unique in that it delivers a GMT package in the traditional Bell & Ross square design.
The BR 03-93 GMT is 42mm broad, 52mm lug-to-lug, 13.5mm thick, and has a lug width of 24mm. The BR-Cal303, which is based on the ETA 2893-2, has a 42-hour power reserve and a 28,800 beat rate.
The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, and the case is water resistant to 100 metres. The mechanism, once again, allows for fast adjustment of the GMT hour hand, making it a caller-style GMT watch. The inspiration for this BR 03-93 GMT reference is evident, but it manages to have its own personality thanks to its own unique aviation-inspired design.
DAVOSA TERNOS CERAMIC GMT “COKE” BEZEL (REF. 161.590.90)
The Davosa Ternos Ceramic GMT is a substantial improvement over the Timex M79. For starters, the Davosa features multi-timezone support, which the Timex does not. The SW330 movement within enables for independent adjustment of the 24-hour hand, making it a “caller” type GMT, making it easy to track alternative timezones from home.
Furthermore, the Davosa has a water resistance rating of 200 metres, making it well-suited for aquatic pursuits. The Davosa Ternos Ceramic GMT reference 161.590.90 is 40mm broad, 47.9mm long from lug to lug, and 12.2mm thick.
The ceramic in the name refers to the bezel, which incorporates the red and black colour scheme, which Rolex has yet to do. The Davosa Ternos additionally has a sapphire crystal date window with a magnifying Cyclops.
SQUALE 30 ATMOS BLACK/RED GMT CERAMICA 1545 COKE BEZEL
Squale has been producing high-quality dive watches since the 1950s. Many feature more unique designs, but others, such as the 30 Atmos seen here, stick to more traditional designs. While the case is plainly identical to the traditional form, it is distinguished by wider lugs and a massive screw-down crown.
Furthermore, the stick hands and square seconds hand lume pip lend their own personality. The stainless steel case is 40mm broad, 20mm wide at the lugs, 12.5mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. Depending on movement availability, the inside is either an ETA 2893-2 or a Sellita SW330-1.
Both movements include a date function and the ability to quickly alter the GMT hand. The matte black dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, and the ceramic black and red bezel. The 30 Atmos refers to the watch’s water resistance, which means it has been tested to 300 metres.
STEINHART OCEAN 39 GMT (REF. 103-1153)
While the style is not unique, Steinhart provides excellent value for the pricing they charge. This stainless steel watch is 39mm broad and 13mm thick, with a 20mm lug width and a SW330-2 élaboré GMT movement inside, allowing for independent adjustment of the 24-hour hand.
A sapphire crystal with a date magnifier protects the matte black clock, and the ceramic bezel is red and black. The case is water resistant to 300 metres. Steinhart also has other alternatives, including a jubilee bracelet and a larger 42mm variant.
As a result, the case design is quite flat, with no curve, making the watch appear larger than the proportions suggest. Furthermore, while functional, the clasp is not as modern as many on the market today. While some more expensive brands utilise identical clasps, other more reasonably priced timepieces feature better clasps.
TIMEX M79 AUTOMATIC (REF. TW2U83400ZV)
If you like the notion of a vintage watch and like the colour scheme, but the prices of a vintage Rolex are out of reach, the Timex M79 should be examined. The Timex M79 has a thin steel bracelet, an aluminium bezel, and is lightweight, giving it the appearance and feel of a vintage watch.
The two-tone red and black bezel enhances the retro look. Unfortunately, this model only contains time, day, and date functionalities and does not support multi-timezone tracking. The Timex M79 has a 40mm wide case, a 14.5mm thick case, and an 18mm lug width.
The dial is protected by an acrylic crystal and is water resistant to 50 metres. Inside is a Miyota automatic movement with a power reserve of 40 hours and the ability to be hand-wound. The Timex M79 is stylish and affordable, but it is not as robust or practical as the other clocks covered in this article.
CONCLUSION
Rolex has clearly been a market leader for decades, particularly in the field of tool watches. The GMT-Master II’s design has made it the industry standard for multi-timezone timepieces. The 16760 not only cemented the GMT-Master II’s position in history, but also the red and black “Coke” bezel.
As a result, Coke bezel Rolex GMT-Master II watches have become exceedingly valuable, and their value has risen in line with increasing demand. In addition, the distinctive design has served as inspiration for several watches, both with and without GMT functionality. Whether it’s an original Rolex Coke GMT or another brand’s watch, this classic design has earned the hearts of many collectors and will continue to do so for many years to come.